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 Post subject: kerfed fretboard lining
PostPosted: Thu Oct 01, 2009 9:21 am 
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Koa
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How many of you kerf your fretboard lining to accept more of the fret tang on wide linings?


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 01, 2009 9:52 am 
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Wow, that sounds like a pain. You'ld have to do it by hand or make a template. If you used the same template, you'ld be off a bit due to the taper of the board.

I try to stay with thin bindings on the fretboard. If I use purfling, I glue it in and slot the board before binding so the slots go through the purfling.

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 01, 2009 10:04 am 
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My bindings are 1/8" wide on this one, so i was thinking on slotting them to accept more of the fret tang.I can slot them by hand with no problem if needed.Just not sure if i need to to prevent fret lifting on the 1/8"ends.It's a babinga board with curly maple binding.


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 01, 2009 10:11 am 
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If you are concerned, then use stainless steel frets...much stronger!

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 01, 2009 10:17 am 
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Koa
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the Padma wrote:
If you are concerned, then use stainless steel frets...much stronger!

I'd throw the board in the woodstove before putting stainless frets on it! ;)


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 01, 2009 10:40 am 
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Rod, The wire i'm useing is .053" wide and .035" Tall from the top of board.And is a mixture of copper and nickel alloy with 18% being nickel.So i'm thinking on putting a 1/16" kerf on the binding.Just don't know if it's needed or not.


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 01, 2009 10:47 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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It's not needed. Just make sure your frets are curved a little bit more than the fretboard before installing them and make sure to get them fully seated.


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 01, 2009 12:05 pm 
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Yup, and then glue down those ends with CA.

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 01, 2009 12:30 pm 
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By the way, looks like using the same fret template would be fine if you decide to kerf. There is a difference in length down the center line vs along the tapered edge but it turns out it's not enough to worry about.

If you have a typical setup with your strings 1/8" from the edge at the nut and you have to notch a bit more than 1/8" to clear the binding, the outside strings will land on the notched part of the fret for the first several frets. It's probably fine if the frets are well seated and glued but I don't know. Would you hear a difference in a note fretted over a full tang vs one fretted over a notch? Never tried it.

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 01, 2009 12:31 pm 
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Sounds good Berry and Steve! That will save me extra work.I do plan on hemispherical ends which should help from getting snagged.Thanks for your replies.


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 01, 2009 5:06 pm 
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Mark Groza wrote:
I'd throw the board in the woodstove before putting stainless frets on it! ;)


So what do you consider is such an issue with Stainless Steel frets to compel you to do that Mark?

Cheers

Kim


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 01, 2009 5:23 pm 
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I just won't play or own a guitar that has stainless frets because all of the ones i've played sounded way too bright for my taste.And i don't want to ruin my fret files on them either or wear out my strings prematurely as they are harder than the string that's riding on them.To each there own i guess,but i know they aren't for my likeing, not even close. ;)


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 01, 2009 8:05 pm 
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Would you hear a difference in a note fretted over a full tang vs one fretted over a notch? Never tried it.[/quote from Kent] You might have something there Kent as it could make a difference.Probably sound brighter on those fretted strings.That would be bad.


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