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http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=17140&filter=jet%2010%2D20
Does any other manufacturer/supplier have one similar to this?
I have a Delta 18-36 and would like to also have a smaller version even as small as 6-12 or so.
The user reviews on the Jet 10-20 downgrade it quite a bit on the automatic overload shutdown saying it's a bit anemic.
Other users say you just have to give it time to do it's job and don't force it.
I'm wanting a smaller thickness sander to be used in conjunction with the 18-36 where it would be set up for coarse sanding and the smaller unit for fine sanding. The idea here being less paper changing.
Maybe need to figure out a way to run coarse and fine grit paper side by side on the 18-36 but would rather not have to go with velcro.
Any ideas?
Thanks
Nelson

These small drum sanders should really be called finishing sanders rather than thickness sanders. If viewed as such then the 10/20 is a fine and very accurate machine. You can thickness sand with them, but have to accept that you can only take of small increments at a time.

Colin

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I don't believe in anything, I simply make use of a set of reasonable working hypotheses.

How do you like the Delta Nelson? I'm tossing that one around along with one that Rona now offers of the same size for about $200 less.

Perhaps the best feature of the Delta is the thickness adjustment, Darrel.
Parallelism of the platen and drum are maintained at all times throughout the thickness range.
The drum is part of the frame and does not move making for good rigidity.
The feedbelt tracking is touchy but, with patience, can eventually be controlled.
I would certainly be lost without the Delta.
Nelson

I have a a 10/20 and had no problems with mine is actually a performax which is jet by another name. The only time that it shutdown is when i forgot to adjust it to a proper thicknes when i was going from one board to another of a different size. There was a 1/8 difference between the boards and it shudown like it should have. Thats to much for a sander. If you are really looking to resize stock a planer is the job for that and not a sander. Beside this it's a well built machine and for my small shop it great. And for a little machine this sucker is quite heavy. Not something you can lift from under a workbench to the top...

I too have the 10-20- a transitional after Jet bought Performax-some mixed labels is only sign. I like it recognizing what it won't do. I don't own a planer and still handplaned to close and then fed the sander. I was fairly pleased that my unit is good on captured dust with the collector hooked up. I am reduced down to the smaller hose size for velocity. I have tuned on it but still get a 1/128th"(guessing) ridge. A scraper, single swipe, leaves a beautiful matched surface.

I stalled it once-lesson learned. The adjustment crank has good feel and I get good consistency. Naturally, I use a backer and double stick tape for thin stock.

I would like to have the next size up since I am doing the solid body thing-though it is not necessary-I just remind myself that there isn't that much rush. BUT, I'm still fumble fingers on paper change and start talking "pirate" while using the little hook-it often transitions to very-foul-mouthed pirate. Mike

Build one?
http://plansnow.com/dn3078.html

I rather spend my time working on instruments then build power tools.

The Delta is a much better,more accurate sander than any of the Performax types. The platen can be adjusted to PERFECT parallelism over the width of a wide board. On adjustable head types,the head is always loose enough to allow it to spring upwards on the outboard side. It has to be loose enough to allow for adjustments. My Delta is very rigid. I also MUCH prefer to make the next pass thinner than the last by adjusting the platen UPWARDS,than to have to adjust the head DOWNWARDS,where,it seems to me,it could slip lower from gravity,and any play at all in the height adjusting screw. And,there will always be play unless the screw has a zero backlash adjustable nut,like my $60,000.00 Hardinge lathe,and NOT hardware quality screws and nuts.

I have a Performax 10/20 that I bought used from Todd Rose. It works great for me. I've used it for tops, backs, sides, bridge plates, bindings and even purflings. I've been able to get consistent very thin thicknesses down to ca. .025" as I recall. That was on maple and purpleheart for rosette purfling strips.

The only problem I've had was some scorching before I realized the necessity of not getting in too much of a rush.

BTW, I should probably keep this info to myself, but if Todd is selling any used eq, go for it. He takes very good care of his stuff. The sander didn't look like it had ever been used.
Walter

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Walter Lay
"It's taken me so long, but now that I know
I can see. All that I do or say, is all I ever will be"
- Billy Joe Shaver

I like my 10-20. I would like to get a bigger one. So what if it takes a 1/2 hour to thickness something. I am not in a big hurry. And mine does a great job. I would most def consider one for "smaller" jobs (if I had a bigger one!)

Mike

I have a very small shop so this is perfect. Yes i would love a much larger more powerful machines. I also have a small jointer/planer combo that has limits but with my room i have to learn to deal with these problems.

I successfully thickness a top for harp guitars in about 40 minutes with my 10-20. Thats a lot of area! Any imperfections are quickly handled with my low profile PC ROS. The ONLY upgrade I would consider is a 16-32. And if I found one, I would not sell my 10-20. The only other consideration in front of me now is whether or not to add a rubber padding to the drum. Sources anyone?

Mike

It looks like the Jet 10-20 uses 3" width sanding rolls. I'm wondering if 2" width (as on Delta) could be used on it also?
Seems like there might be a "radial timing" issue with the location of the end clamps.

I have the same thicknessing sander but I don't do pro building either. I build custom guitars I can't afford to buy.
To the point, yours and my little machine can only work so fast, if you are running a business then the faster you do the wood with the machine the better! The bigger machines work so much faster period, they cost way more money but they are all far worth it. I took four pieces of koa to a wood shop and they were thicknessed on a $60,000 machine in 15 min. That would take several hours on our smaller machines. Bigger, more powerful machines are always worth the money if you are in this to make money.
I spent my life as a pro keyboardist who toured all over the world, I had the very best keyboards and six to eight of them because they each have a great distinctive different sound.
cheers.

Jeeez. I think you can make a hand powered thickness sander (like a big plane) to do at least the big stuff, with heavier grit paper, like nasty 50, down to .140, then use finer papers to get it to thickness. That is, a weighted board that can only go down so far. It works for my basic carving wood for flatening, I dont see why it wouldnt work for tops and maybe backsets as long as the boards stay flat and depth control is maintained.

Am I dreaming?

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Here is what a Parlor Guitar is for!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oEa8PkjO6_I

I buy my paper in rolls and trace the ends of the old paper onto the new one and cut them since they taper at the ends. It's cheaper then buying pre cut rolls specifically made for this machine. I never have tried 2" paper but i can't really think of a reason why it wouldn't work.

Yeah but the average guitar builder on this site(even the big pros here} probably isn't pumping out enough guitars in a year to make a $60,000.00 drum sander cost effective for his shop.

My Jet 10/20 is slightly crooked on the "pitch". How do I level the drum?

http://www.cpojettools.com/documents/manuals/jet/628900.pdf
Looks like page 12 shows the adjustment.