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 Post subject: Major repair/Help needed
PostPosted: Sun Sep 27, 2009 11:29 am 
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Cocobolo
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Joined: Sat Jan 14, 2006 4:47 am
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Location: United States
First name: Cecil Wayne
Last Name: Carroll
City: West plains
State: Missouri
Zip/Postal Code: 65775
Country: USA
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This is a first for me and i need to consult the collective knowledge of the forum to understand how to proceed.

I have an Alvarez on my bench that has some major issues. Some I know how to handle and some I don't. The first hint of trouble is the huge belly behind the bridge (1/4 inch without string tension) measured at the sides with a streight edge behind the bridge,a 3/64 dip in front. The bridge is lifting from the bass side to about half it's width.

Inside the X is split on the treble side about half way down from the top and is open for a little more than an inch. I can't find any loose areas on this side. The bass side is not split but is loose from the top the full width of the bridge plate. And lastly the bridge plate is loose front and back.

Your advise is sorely needed. Thanks in advance.

Cecil


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 27, 2009 12:50 pm 
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Koa
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Joined: Fri Mar 23, 2007 9:56 am
Posts: 1271
What exactly is your question?

My first thought is that it sounds like the repairs will cost more than the value of the instrument.

If they want to do it anyway.....

I just fixed an old Hummingbird in similar shape (with the additional problem of a failing upper transverse brace and heel coming loose, key crack, etc). I was able to fix much of the doming in the process of fixing the bridge patch, bridge, and loose braces.

What's the neck angle like now? If you take 1/8" out of the dome, will it be playable or need a neck reset too?

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PostPosted: Sun Sep 27, 2009 1:47 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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Location: Changes when ever I move..Australia
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From the extent of the damage it sounds like it was left in the car on a hot day and that often means that most of the glue joints have/will fail. I do not know the guitar but Kent is most probably correct, there could be more work involved than the guitar is worth.

If it is heat failure and you decide to take this on anyhow for sentimental reasons regluing what you can, it will be best to sure up everything you can find in the first visit because the more failed joints left unattended, the more will reveal themselves later. Keep in mind that when glue fails due to heat it is common for the joints to move slightly from their original position and then weakly re-bond themselves in the new location once they cooled. Look for this movement even on the secure braces as a an indicator, also, hold the guitar up by the neck with the back to you and the body hanging vertical and take a look for any mild deformity where the sides meet the heel at the top. If you notice even a mild inward sinking of the sides this indicates that the UTB and or the neck block glue joints have failed and you should then ask yourself how much you value your own time before you proceed.

Good luck.

Kim


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 28, 2009 7:00 am 
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Cocobolo
Cocobolo

Joined: Sat Jan 14, 2006 4:47 am
Posts: 189
Location: United States
First name: Cecil Wayne
Last Name: Carroll
City: West plains
State: Missouri
Zip/Postal Code: 65775
Country: USA
Focus: Build
Status: Semi-pro
Thanks guys,

That was pretty much y thoughts on the matter. Repair costs will exceed the value of the instrument.

Kim, thanks for the tip. I hadn't thought of checking for shifts in glue lines.

Cecil


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