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PostPosted: Mon Aug 10, 2009 9:01 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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The newest Luthier Tips du Jour instructional video is on Youtube. The topic is the classical guitar bridge. Subtitles are available in both English and Portuguese and you can translate them into any other language by using the CC option on Youtube.
As always, comments and discussion are welcome.
Enjoy!



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PostPosted: Mon Aug 10, 2009 10:15 am 
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How do you remove the teeth from one side of a file? (or can you buy them like this)

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 10, 2009 10:28 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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Darryl Young wrote:
How do you remove the teeth from one side of a file? (or can you buy them like this)



You can sand them off. Some folks sell them this way.


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 10, 2009 3:15 pm 
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Nice video, as always. I always wondered why you dont see a lot of ebony bridges on classicals. Too bad, I really like the look of ebony bridges. I wonder if you could make all those bone parts out of tusq.


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 10, 2009 4:09 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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Robbie O'Brien wrote:
Darryl Young wrote:
How do you remove the teeth from one side of a file? (or can you buy them like this)



You can sand them off. Some folks sell them this way.


Look for "plain edge" files at McMaster-Carr

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 10, 2009 10:20 pm 
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Koa
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You've got it down to just under nine and a half minutes. Not bad for a classical bridge.
laughing6-hehe

The jig blank is a really great idea. I love it.

d


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 11, 2009 10:19 am 
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Cocobolo
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Great video. What finished bridge weight are you looking for?

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 11, 2009 10:35 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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George Thomas wrote:
Great video. What finished bridge weight are you looking for?



I like to come in around 20-24 grams


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 11, 2009 11:10 am 
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Robbie, I'm curious. If you slope your finger board, why is it necessary to slope your bridge, to compensate. I find that with a bass sloped, tapered, board, my action is about right with bridge and saddle level with the top. Different designs, I guess.

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 11, 2009 12:09 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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WaddyThomson wrote:
Robbie, I'm curious. If you slope your finger board, why is it necessary to slope your bridge, to compensate. I find that with a bass sloped, tapered, board, my action is about right with bridge and saddle level with the top. Different designs, I guess.


It is not necessary. However, to get the action I need on the bass strings I have a bit more saddle sticking out of the bridge on that side. If my bridge has a slight taper to it, ( thicker or taller on the bass side) the amount of saddle showing is a bit more uniform instead of a wedge. I split the difference. I slope down about a 1/2mm on the fretboard and add about a 1/2mm to the bridge on the bass side. All roads lead to Rome though. [:Y:]


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 11, 2009 1:26 pm 
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There's the difference. I slope a full mm to the bass side. It seems to be enough to stay reasonably level.

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 11, 2009 4:50 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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I slope the fingerboard, but my saddles have a slight radius and are at their peak over the 4th string, and then slope back down towards the 6th, the fourth is the one that can give the most problem as far as buzzing.

Colin

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 11, 2009 4:56 pm 
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Actually, Colin, I do a bit of that too, particularly if I have any buzzing on the middle strings, which is where it seems to show up. The D strings are really wimpy strings, and it's why they seem to be the ones to break first.

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