I've recently bought Dan Erlewines' Guitar Finishing book and was amazed how good it was with the vast array of recipes and techniques. I'd like to do a Tobacco Sunburst and my only gripe with the book is that it was mainly directing you to StewMac colours, and shipping to the UK is prohibitive. In my local hardware shop I can buy alcohol and water based stains, and I'm assuming that I can use artists watercolour paints to dilute and alter water based products, and oil paints to alter the alcohol ones, my other assumption is that acrylic paints are pigment based and shouldn't be used as you would start to hide the grain.
I can also get coloured inks and aren't sure what the base is of if they would be useful. The other thing I'd like but can't source over here is EM6000 lacquer, nitro is tricky to get but I would rather not spray it. I can get a brand called chestnut here is they're description of their product
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Chestnut Acrylic Lacquer A hardwearing water based lacquer, a good alternative to solvent based products. It dries to a very high gloss, whilst drying the resin components cross-link to form a coating which is actually tougher than Melamine Lacquer. Apply with brush or roller, allowing two hours between coats. We recommend the use of acrylic sanding sealer first to give a smooth base on which to build the lacquer
Their other product is
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Chestnut Melamine Lacquer This finish will give protection against both heat and water. It can be used alone or, for better results, over a cellulose based sanding sealer. Several thin coats provide a superior finish. Quick drying due to cellulose base. The melamine dries to a gloss finish and can then be matted using 0000 Steel Wool, or brought to a gloss by applying wax with a pad of 0000 Steel Wool and buffing to a shine. (Clean brushes in cellulose thinners see Solvents, Tools, Cleaners & Sundries section)
Now these are sold by the litre (2 pints) how much would I need for a guitar and which would be more fit for purpose? I've also heard both good and bad about a product
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Rustin's Plastic Coating
Universally accepted as one of the toughest finishes available. Something akin to liquid formica, it is a 2 part cold cure finish which dries chemically after the addition of a hardener. It has a high solids content thus giving a high build per coat. It can be used on a variety of surfaces but not on metal or over paint. It can be brushed, applied with a roller or sprayed. There is no tougher finish for kitchen worktops, bar tops, tables or anywhere subjected to heat, solvents, water spillage etc. Plastic coating dries clear and glossy and can be left as such or given a satin finish by rubbing down with 0000 steel wool and wax, matt by using zero steel wool or brought to a high gloss mirror finish using burnishing cream, when it resembles a French polished surface but with none of the disadvantages in upkeep. For wooden or cork floors a special type F plastic coating is available to beautify and protect your floor. See Floor Finishes section for Floor Plastic Coating. (Coverage 1litre to 15m². Reaches maximum heat and solvent resistance after 5-7 days).
and aren't sure about it.
Any advice welcome
Cheers guys
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