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What glue is best to join the back?
It was just pointed out on my AGF post that the Rosette trench should have been prepped with Shelac before CA Gluing. I am in for yellowing apparently.
Other than running them through the Planer do I prep the back any way before joining?
What is the difference between Mahogany or Spruce back braces? I have either to work with.
Info;
I used spruce for the top braces.
The guitar is a Lutz top, basic Mahogany back and sides.
Thanks!

I use Hot Hide Glue for pretty much everything, but glue is highly debated. I prefer spruce braces due to the strength to weight ratio. I normally use Sitka back braces and Adi top braces. There's also a million methods for jointing, and joining the back. The two pieces need to fit perfect. I get mine real close with a power jointer and finish with a strip of sandpaper glued to a 24" carpenters level. I clamp them with three 24" bar clamps but I don't use much pressure. There's some really good tutorials in that section here, with alot of different methods.

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I didn't mean to say it, but I meant what I said.
http://www.brackettinstruments.com/

I Know, I know. I am working out of 3 books. Hardly a thing is done the same!
I am not up for Hide glue ...yet. Likely for the back I will use Titebond uless I hear a no.
I will go with Adi on the braces. You are right, much lighter.

I personally hate titebond. (Martin, Taylor, and pretty much all the big companies use it, but if I wanted one of their guitars I'd could buy one cheaper and easier than building one) I'd recommend either Fish Glue or LMI white. I can send you some fish glue if you want. I've got a bunch and I don't use much of it. I think fish glue is great. I'm not 100% convinced it's as good as HHG, but I like things traditional anyway.

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I didn't mean to say it, but I meant what I said.
http://www.brackettinstruments.com/

Whatever glue you choose to use, just make sure it's not old. I like HHG, and use it to join tops a and backs, but there are plenty of builders using Titebond Original, and Elmers Carpenters glue, and LMI White. Fish glue is also a good option, but it does get sticky fast, even thought it has a long open time.

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Waddy

Photobucket Build Album Library

Sound Clips of most of my guitars

Thanks, I have a can of Hide Glue crystals. I am just afraid of set up time first time out. I tried LMI and it didn't impress me. Thanks for all the fish offer, but I will hold off for now

I've been told that Titebond shrinks under some waterbases finishes. If you're not using waterbase it should be fine.

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I didn't mean to say it, but I meant what I said.
http://www.brackettinstruments.com/

How old is old? I opened this Titebond in Feburary. Fish Glue has a longer set up? How long?

First one will be French Polish. By the second one I should have a compressor. I won Paint guns at the ASIA Symposium. I can't wait to figure them out.

You should be fine using the Titebond as long as it's Titebond original.

If you bought it in February it should still be fine. I think around 6 months is when you want to start thinking about getting a fresh bottle.

Of course you never know how long it has sat on the shelf in the store beforehand....

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Thanks,
Blain

http://www.ullrichguitar.com

"89.67% of all statistics are made up on the spot."

Actually "you do." The lot number on the top of the bottle tell you when the glue was made. The first 2 characters are what you pay attention to.

For example if the number is 9C5220H.20, then the 9 is for 2009 and the C is the 3rd letter in the alphabet so equate that to the 3rd month or March. I think they skip a couple letters (E maybe) so once you are up higher in the alphabet I was not sure exactly what month it was made, but I don't use Titebond on anything very critical, so I don't get to worked about about a month or 2. It does seem that I have 4 or 5 three quarter used up bottles around for "hobby" projects that have past their shelf lives. I also think that I might bring them to the local high school's wood shop, but they are on break right now.

Thanks for the tip on reading the date! This is good to know the next time I buy Titebond. It will be just like buying milk at the grocery store.

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Thanks,
Blain

http://www.ullrichguitar.com

"89.67% of all statistics are made up on the spot."

On my first guitar I used carpenter's wood glue, and it worked beautifully! That is all I know.

I've had great luck with Titebond. HHG kicked my butt when I first started learning so I have been reluctant to try it again (though I totally agree with all of the arguments for using it!).

Just out of curiosity I did a 'quick' build using gorilla glue. Came out pretty good, but it got left someplace too warm and the joints started to seperate. Not sure if that is the fault of the glue, or the fault of the joint/glue applier.

-Matthew

John,

Congratulations!! The first build is a trip.
As you know, I'm a novice too - having completed four - number 5 is the guitar from &&** - More issues than the other four put together.

I've used LMI White, Titebond, and am now experimenting with HHG. My vote is LMI White or Titebond for your first build. And I didn't find too much difference between them.

As for the braces on the back, I've always used spruce - just like the front. I'm sure you'll find lots of opinions, but I think you'd probably be fine with either.

As for joining the back - I don't use a joiner, so I'm not the guy to advise on that topic. I'll concur with the previous comment - they have to be perfect, or you're gluing a bad joint, which will fail. Lots of discussions on the topic of shooting boards here. It took me a bit of practice to get close. Might be worth practicing on scrap.

Good luck!

John, I'm not a fish glue expert but have used it. It gets tacky fairly quick.....but dries overnight. I left it clamped for 24 hours when I used it. I'm working on my first build so I didn't want to mess with HHG as I didn't want the pressure of getting everything in place in the short time required. HHG works is also an animal protein glue so has similar characteristics to HHG and it also contracts and pulls joints together as it drys like HHG. That's why I'm using it on my first build.....most of the benefit og HHG with much longer clamp time. I especially wanted it for gluing teh braces on the top and bottom......which I've not yet done with the humidity so high.

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Formerly known as Adaboy.......

Oops...double post sorry! Deleted text.

I have used HHG, Titebond original, and LMI white glue. They all work fine. Now, I pretty much use the LMI for everything. Just my preference.

I can remember my first build and there is alot of information and detail involved and at times I felt a little overwhelmed with some of the advice and quantity of things to learn. I think going with Titebond Orginal on your first is a good choice. I have had great success with this, very forgiving, easy to clean up, long work time and have not experienced any problems on any of the guitars. When you get faster, better and more confident in the processes involved you can then move to working with HHG, just my opinion.

Mike Spencer
White Oak, Texas

Titebond regular is what i use for everything and haven't had any problems.It's very user friendly.I do make sure it's fresh though.I buy it in the small bottle so i use it up quick.

I have decided to do 2 as my first build! My 1st already is a Sunburst canidate, The top bracing was all dish sanded at 20', not just the x and not the 28. The grain run on my braces are wrong I have been told, and how to not do it again
So, I have started a second build. As I complete a step on the first one, figure out what I did right and wrong then do the second build right along so I can work out my corrections while fresh to the oops.
I am running it as a long strange trip on AGF. I have hopefully encoraged more to try than scaring them off lol
http://www.acousticguitarforum.com/foru ... p?t=157945
Folks enjoy a trainwreck and I like it because it makes me keep track and do my best to not screw up.
Thanks for the glue chat! I bet I have a few more questions.