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I got to thinking about this today. Cutting the ends of the sides at the neck block and tail block is a basic activity. At least so I thought. So is it? Just exactly how do you go about it? I cut my sides proud, bend, then trim using the mold as a guide. What do you do?

Mike

Table saw on the miter fence. I leave the top edge flat, that way the tail and head block ends are just squared up. I then shape the back edge with a side template. Register off the tail end when bending. Put them in the mold and I'm good to glue on the blocks and liners after a bit of a sand.

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I've been doing mine similiar to you Mike. Bend a little proud, put in the mold and mark the ends. Then use a square to mark the cut line, clamp the side down using a block aligned with the line. Use the block as a fence to cut with a fine toothed saw.
That said, cutting it on the table saw like Rod does would be much quicker.

bend & clamp into 2 halves of mould then usd bandsaw to trim square.

tail wedge done later

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I use to use a table saw until it blew out the corner of a side. I use a razor saw, two clamps and a block of wood as a stright edge.
Quick and controlled. Oh and safe

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Lance@LuthiersForum.com

I have cut on the table saw after bending, and cut by hand after bending. The last set I cut by hand just proud of the center line on the mold and trimmed flush on a bench hook with a plane. That was the best - low stress, nice fit.

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Gabriel Regalbuto
Carlsbad, California
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Leave em long. Mark from mold. Transfer to inside with square. Take to bandsaw and trim. Don't get much easier, and simple.....if it wasn't I'd be lost!

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John Mayes
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As long as the piece is supported on both sides of the blade with the miter fence, you should never have this problem.

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"We have to constantly remind ourselves what we're doing....No Luthier is putting a man on the moon!" Harry Fleishman

"Generosity is always different in the eye of the person who didn't receive anything, but who wanted some." Waddy Thomson

Once determine which side is to be flat, I use joiner for that edge (I don't have any shooting boards never have), draw profile and cut out sid and then bend. Depending on mood or what going on I then do like John or use razor saw like Lance.

Well, OK there. Sounds like what I am doing (micro saw) and now I will add the bench hook. The table saw seems a bit frightening with chip outs and all, but properly supported as Rod said, it should be no problem.

But the bench hook really sounds like a great idea!

Mike

Yes for sure! Rod is correct here! I am a bit lazy and got in to a habit of just walking to the saw and buzzing it off. The razor saw talkes me just a few minutes longer and forces me to NOT be lazy

Rod, just so you know, I didnt mean to come off like I was diss'in ya bro

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Lance@LuthiersForum.com

Never once felt that way Lance

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Bend long, mark length in the mold. Make sure the bandsaw blade is square to the table and with bent side top edge against the table just touch against the sawblade. I stand on the backside of the bandsaw and just clip it right off. Fast, simple and square.

Joe

I mark my sides on the mold I am using. Allow about a total of 1/8 per end. I want to have the sets tight in the mold. I like to see the waist lift off the side of the mold just as I am closing the mold. About a 1/8" lift per sides seems perfect . The spreaders will make the side set conform to the mold nicely .
When cutting the sides I like to do both at the same time using a backer to push through the blade. That way any difference on one side is corrected to the other. If you over trim you set you can always open it a tad at the tail .

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I put each side in the mold seperately, using turnbuckles to push it in tightly, and mark the ends to the centerline of the mold with a knife point. Then I take the side out, and scribe across the mark perpendicular to the top edge, which is flat at this point. I've been using the knife to cut across the side on both surfaces of late, guiding with the square, and when I've got good deep cuts on both sides, the end just snaps off pretty cleanly. A couple of strokes with a block plane wil take off any spoor.

I use a my fret saw with a block clamped down as a guide. Nice clean cut.

I leave mine long, mark to length with a square and cut on bandsaw.....I too had a side chip when cutting on the tablesaw, don't do that any more. I've actually cut a bunch by hand but the bandsaw works great.

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Gwaltney Guitars

I don't use an endgraft so have to get the joint bang on theoretically. I do it like David Hurd. I cut them on my miter saw leaving a 1/16" or so. I then clamp them tight, back to back and sand to a squared line using my beltsander. Any slight angling is cancelled out by doing them both at once.

Bend a little long, mark correct length using mold, cut quite close with the bandsaw, true up on the edge sander.

That's exactly what I do.
TJK

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I've been using one of these for making a clean cut without nicking out big chunks on the sides. Works rather well in "stun wood" mode.

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