Official Luthiers Forum!

I had the thrill to present some of my guitars at the Michigan Fingerstyle Society Pepino D'Agostino concert last night. It is always nice to have people play your instruments. They were all well received and the new 000 got a lot of playing time. The highlight for me was Pepino played it and it will never sound so good in my hands, actually pretty much everyone played it better than me.

Some photos of this guitar are at
http://s190.photobucket.com/albums/z228/fetellier/2009%20Guitar%20builds/

The MFGS which I am a member of is always willing to present a Luthier and his work at a concert send me a PM if interested.

Fred

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Fred Tellier
http://www.fetellierguitars.com
Facebook page http://www.facebook.com/pages/FE-Tellier-Guitars/163451547003866

Nice to have a group like that to get some feedback from Fred. Sounds like a great bunch to have test drive your work.

Cheers,
Danny

Fred,

That is one sweet guitar.

I just started my first coco guitar yesterday. I was planning on using curly eucalyptus for the bindings. After seeing yours looking so cool with dark bindings it's got me thinking.....

One question. I hear coco is hard to glue. I was thinking about using All Wood epoxy. What do you think?

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Joe Beaver
Maker of Sawdust

I used titebond for everything wiping the joint area with thinner to get the surface oil off, but I am not sure it actually changes anything. I read many comments both pro and con regarding glue choices and decided to just go with my usual glue.

Fred

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Fred Tellier
http://www.fetellierguitars.com
Facebook page http://www.facebook.com/pages/FE-Tellier-Guitars/163451547003866

If it works I wouldn't change it. My only experience was using coco in a neck lamination. I used tightbond and then I tested some of the cut off pieces. It held ok not as good as it did to the mahogany parts. Someone said the hold varies with how oily the coco is.

So the OOO sounds pretty?

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Joe Beaver
Maker of Sawdust

The consensus I understand, including FWW tests, is not to wipe oily woods with any kind of thinner or solvent. Just ensure that the joint is freshly planed, scraped or lightly sanded prior to glueing. The FWW test indicated that wiping with solvent/thinner weakened the joint.

Pretty cool Fred. Did you get some useful feedback from all the players? I think a lot of us (myself included) are making a mistake in not getting instruments into the hands of more good players to get feedback.

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David White, Toronto

"All my favourite singers can't sing."

Sweet Git-tar Fred

Regarding FWW's consensus, I've tried it their way and found that a well planed edge wiped with Acetone then glued
with AR glue (ie regular Titebond, not II or III) and it' wont fail at the glue line. I've glued their way and never had as
consistant a result as I have wiping first. Same goes for Teak as well.

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Bill Hodge


One does not simply, own enough guitars!

The literature from Smiths all-wood epoxy says not to wipe with a solvent as this weakens the epoxy. I used it for the neck and tail blocks on my cocobolo guitar but I havent strung it up yet. So far so good.
Warren.

Warren, if you use epoxy, you're absolutely right. But as you know Aliphatic Resin and epoxy are two completely different
breeds. The only place I use epoxy is under the Fretboard, and there I use West System epoxy. When I do that, I make
sure the backside of the Fretboard has been freshly surfaced just prior to gluing. Epoxy is an absolutely failsafe way IMO
for those who are leary about Titebond but I've been using Titebond for years with excellent results and a flawless track record.

I may try the epoxy method someday just for the fun of it but .

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Bill Hodge


One does not simply, own enough guitars!

Very cool Fred. One of these days I'll connect with you at one of those shows. I have seen Peppino before, but I we were just getting back from vacation.

Ken

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http://www.casperguitar.com