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 Post subject: countersunk
PostPosted: Tue Apr 07, 2009 3:08 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
Brazilian Rosewood
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Joined: Wed Sep 24, 2008 8:55 pm
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Location: Taiwan
First name: Tai
Last Name: Fu
City: Taipei
Country: Taiwan
Focus: Repair
Status: Semi-pro
I have been trying to find suitable countersink bits to countersink the bridge properly but I don't want to sink almost 40 dollars on a Stewmac tool that does only that. I ordered a countersink from Enco but I got confused with their countersink angle and it turns out that while 60 degree is great for Fender pickguard it's too steep for bridge holes. The problem is that I needed to jump through a ton of hoop to order from Enco and they insist on shipping it express, so that means 30 dollars shipping for a 5 dollar part. I tried local tool dealers and they don't even know what a countersink is much less provide the correct one so in desperation I bought one of those drill/countersink thing that also turns out to be a 60 degree countersink (and sadly drilled it into a bridge). I tried ordering through McMaster Carr and they said in an email that due to ever complex export regulations (which only consist of filling out one form) they will only deal with a few overseas customers. Caswell plating only accept wire transfer which costs 15 dollars.

So can someone do me a favor? I will order a correct countersink from ENCO or other tool dealers, send it to you then you forward it to me in a first class envelope (which costs like two or three stamps). Or if someone has an extra countersink of the correct size to sell me that would be great too. What degree countersink should I use? 90 or 100 or 120?

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 Post subject: Re: countersunk
PostPosted: Tue Apr 07, 2009 8:59 am 
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Is this to countersink the bridge pin holes? You can get a carbide burr at a machine shop for much less money.

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Laurent Brondel
West Paris, Maine - USA
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 Post subject: Re: countersunk
PostPosted: Tue Apr 07, 2009 9:56 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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Location: Taiwan
First name: Tai
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City: Taipei
Country: Taiwan
Focus: Repair
Status: Semi-pro
Laurent Brondel wrote:
Is this to countersink the bridge pin holes? You can get a carbide burr at a machine shop for much less money.


I am not sure which carbide burr you're referring to... I tried to find a suitable burr but they were either too steep or too expensive. I thought about using a angle router bit but I think that might chatter a lot. Enco sells most countersink at 5 bucks a piece...

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Cat-gut strings are made from kitten guts, stretched out to near breaking point and then hardened with grue saliva. As a result these give a feeling of Pain and anguish whenever played, and often end up playing themselves backwards as part of satanic rituals.

Typhoon Guitars
http://www.typhoon-guitars.com


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 Post subject: Re: countersunk
PostPosted: Tue Apr 07, 2009 12:52 pm 
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A router bit to chamfer your bridge pin holes seems like a bad idea…
Any machine shop should carry a selection of carbide burrs suitable for the job. Otherwise a hardware store/home centre should have countersinks.

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Laurent Brondel
West Paris, Maine - USA
http://www.laurentbrondel.com/


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 Post subject: Re: countersunk
PostPosted: Tue Apr 07, 2009 5:56 pm 
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The countersink from Lee Valley is awesome ...its about 15 bucks IIRC.

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 Post subject: Re: countersunk
PostPosted: Tue Apr 07, 2009 6:48 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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Location: Canada
Hi Tai Fu,

Here is the link to the Lee valley ones:

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/Search.aspx?c=2&action=n

I just bought the larger one on the top row right but have other ones as well that I bought at local industrial stores (for metal working). They are 82 degrees and should be fairly common, even in Taiwan.

Good luck!

Shane

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 Post subject: Re: countersunk
PostPosted: Tue Apr 07, 2009 7:15 pm 
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Mahogany
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Location: Canada
There was a discussion on this awhile back and I believe it was Mario who said he used a rotary tool grinding stone.

Warren.


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 Post subject: Re: countersunk
PostPosted: Tue Apr 07, 2009 8:25 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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R W Goodman wrote:
There was a discussion on this awhile back and I believe it was Mario who said he used a rotary tool grinding stone.

Warren.


Hey Warren,

That particular one looks way too pointy (to get technical!). Also those units are quite soft and the abrasive breaks off quite easily so that would concern me as the strings may rest against that area a bit. But hey, Mario has WAY more experience at that than me...but still there must be other angles that he was referring too.

Shane

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 Post subject: Re: countersunk
PostPosted: Tue Apr 07, 2009 9:26 pm 
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Koa
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Location: Auburn, California
First name: Hank
Last Name: Mauel
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Here is a link to MSC Industrial that will show you what a carbide burr looks like.

http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNSRIT?PMPXNO=1666594&PMT4NO=61622651

I use one to make the countersunk holes on the bridge to accommodate the round heads of the bridge pins. If you want one, I can get them in a day or two from the MSC warehouse in Nevada. Then mail it over to you.

Best used in a drill press for overall stability, but can go in a variable speed hand drill if you're careful.

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 Post subject: Re: countersunk
PostPosted: Tue Apr 07, 2009 9:53 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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Location: Taiwan
First name: Tai
Last Name: Fu
City: Taipei
Country: Taiwan
Focus: Repair
Status: Semi-pro
I think this is what I need:

http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNSRIT?PM ... O=61623286

I hope the 90 degree angle is correct.

_________________
Cat-gut strings are made from kitten guts, stretched out to near breaking point and then hardened with grue saliva. As a result these give a feeling of Pain and anguish whenever played, and often end up playing themselves backwards as part of satanic rituals.

Typhoon Guitars
http://www.typhoon-guitars.com


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 Post subject: Re: countersunk
PostPosted: Tue Apr 07, 2009 11:42 pm 
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Mahogany
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Joined: Tue Jan 22, 2008 8:32 pm
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Location: Canada
Quote:
Hey Warren,

That particular one looks way too pointy (to get technical!).


I most likely have the wrong bit pictured.

Here's Mario's original post.

Quote:
For bridges, I use a cone-shaped stone in a Dremel. No chance of tearout, and produces a lovely countersink. And the aroma of BRW smoke... ah....

I use the same cone(this Dremel is set aside with this stone in it all the time, I use it so much) for also esing the edges of the tuner holes, for the bushings, for the end pin, and for the bolt holes in the body. Anything that needs a slight chamfer....


Maybe it was this one...


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 Post subject: Re: countersunk
PostPosted: Tue Apr 07, 2009 11:54 pm 
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Koa
Koa

Joined: Sat Nov 08, 2008 3:57 pm
Posts: 775
Location: Powell River BC Canada
First name: Daniel
Last Name: Minard
City: Powell River
State: BC
Country: Canada
I have a couple of really good countersinks, but prefer to use a carbide (or high speed steel)
burr. I find the countesinks tend to cause chipping where the cutting edge meets end grain. Sometimes a dull old burr will do a smoother job than an sharp, aggressive one.


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 Post subject: Re: countersunk
PostPosted: Wed Apr 08, 2009 1:13 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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Location: Canada
Yup, I quite like the look of the burr that Hank linked to. I printed that page off and I will be attending my local Industrial Supply and asking them to get me one and will give that a try. I like that it creates a round hole rather than a chamfered one.

Hey Warren, no worries I was just noting that the angle needed to be shallower. That one looks more like the angle I would like to see.

Shane

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 Post subject: Re: countersunk
PostPosted: Wed Apr 08, 2009 5:01 am 
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I used to use a Dremel-style stone to do this, but they clog up pretty quickly and burn rather than cut, which I find undesirable.
I use a carbide burr mounted in a hand-powered drill, it will probably last my entire career and some, is very clean and manageable and I even use it to slightly countersink tuner/end pin holes before finishing.

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Laurent Brondel
West Paris, Maine - USA
http://www.laurentbrondel.com/


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 Post subject: Re: countersunk
PostPosted: Wed Apr 08, 2009 6:17 am 
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http://www.carbidebur.com/shapes/scburs.htm

http://www.carbidebur.com/shapes/skburs.htm

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 Post subject: Re: countersunk
PostPosted: Wed Apr 08, 2009 8:04 am 
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[:Y:] [:Y:] Lee Valley. I've used them for years and would never go back to any other for wood.

Danny


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