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Has anyone tried shimming a fingerboard so that it could be run through a drum sander? If you've got a jig for it I'd like to see it. I'll need to reduce the thickness of a fingerboard for a classical guitar. Its already slotted so I don't want to plane it.

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A higher purpose for wood.
Rich Smith
Issaquah, WA

I am assuming you want to taper it on the bass side, is that correct?

If so, this is how I do it: I build up layers of masking tape progressively on the side that I want to taper. In my case, I want the thickness of the fingerboard to start at 6.8 mm at the nut (It may seem a bit thick, but I have to start thick so that it doesn't get too thin after radiusing). So, after I have used my drum sander to bring the entire fingerboard to 6.8 mm, I then flip it over and divide my fingerboard in 10, between the nut and the 19th fret. I then put one layer of masking tape on the bass side that goes from the first division mark (on the nut side) all the way to the other end. I then start another layer from the second mark to the other end, and so forth. I end up with a progressive slope that leads to a build up of 10 layers of tape at the end of the fretboard on the bass side. I add another layer that goes the entire length on top of the other ones. The reason is that each layer of masking tape is about 0.1 mm. When it goes through the drum sander, the masking tape compresses about 10%, so the extra layer is to compensate for that.

I then run the fingerboard again through the drum sander (masking tape on the side away from the drum, of course). It sands away progressively on the now elevated bass side and you eventually end up with a fingerboard that is perfectly flat, but tapering on the bass side from its original 6.8mm at the nut to 5.8 at the 19th fret. The treble side remains at 6.8 all the way through. The work is completed by sanding with a radius block when the fingerboard is glued in place on the neck.

It is a very simple method and it works perfectly. It takes 2 minutes to set up and about 10 runs through the drum sander, so the entire operation takes less than 10 minutes. I guess you could make a shim that would replace the masking tape and put it under the fingerboard for a same purpose.

I hope my explanations were clear. My digital camera is broken so I can't picture the operation to show you, unfortunately...

Good luck

Pat

Pat, great idea! I think a CG fingerboard is tapered across its width with a bit more taken off the bass side.

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A higher purpose for wood.
Rich Smith
Issaquah, WA

Pat, since my fingerboard is already radiused, I'll have to re-radius and re-cut my fret slots. Rich

_________________
A higher purpose for wood.
Rich Smith
Issaquah, WA

Taper it from the bottom. Just make sure you set it up right.

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Waddy

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What Waddy said !

I use a 3/4" marine plywood piece with a stop so the f.b. doesn't go flying across the room ,and a 1mm shim(on the end I want thinned) on the drive belt side .
This sands a taper for me !
I run the glue surface under the drum.
I get great results and it save all the hand planning I use to do.
MIke

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Mike Collins