Official Luthiers Forum!

As John Hall will attest, I'm the biggest scrounge in the world. Nothing makes me happier than creating something from what otherwise would be scrap. The Guitar Makers Connection at Martin sells reject and overstock necks at various discounted prices depending on the condition and reason for rejection. The most common necks are 14 fret Martin long scale (25.4”). Unfortunately, if you want a 12 fret (or a 12 fret with M&T neck joint), they are more rare and bring a premium price.
This gave me the incentive to work out (with John’s help) a system to simply and reliably shorten 14 fret necks to anything you want.



We start out making a couple of reference marks. Position a fret board of the correct scale for the neck with the 14th fret in the correct position, then mark the neck at the nut position. Don't forget to remove the roll pins Martin uses to position the fret boards.




Then place a fret board of the scale you want to end up with, positioning the 12th fret (or whatever fret you want at the body) at the end of the neck. Mark the neck at the nut position.
Here you can see the 2 marks. These are not the cut marks, only references to measure how much to remove. Measure the distance between the marks.



Lay a straight edge along the back of the head stock, and mark the neck where it intersects the top of the neck.



Using a small square, use the truss rod slot to extend the mark you just made across the neck. This will be one of the cut marks.



Using the measurement from earlier, make another line further down the neck, this will be the other cut line. The first two lines can now be erased or marked out to avoid confusion.



Before we cut the neck, using whatever method you have available, rout two shallow (about ¼ to 3/8 inch) channels for reinforcement and alignment later. These need to be perfectly parallel to the center line of the neck, and should extend about an inch past each cut line.



Martin head stocks are cut at about a 3 ½ deg. angel, so using a wedge cut to match, clamp the head stock to you rip fence with the center line, truss rod slot parallel to the table top.



With the blade fully retracted, position the fence so that the left side of the blade is just shy of the cut mark furthest from the head stock. This will allow you to tighten up the cut after you start to crank up the blade and check out where it begins to cut.



When you have it positioned just right, crank the blade through the neck.



Now you can reposition the fence to make the other cut, referencing from the right side of the blade this time.

This is a good time to make any mods (binding, slot head, etc.) to the head stock while it’s separated and easier to work with.


Now using pieces of hard wood or carbon fiber assemble the pieces taking care to get everything lined up. The truss rod is good to use for alignment.




For aesthetic reasons, I wouldn’t use one of these necks on a high end guitar, but it’s perfectly functional and completely flexible for scale length.

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If you can't do something well, learn to enjoy doing it poorly.

Well done toot. Thanks for sharing.

Just out of curiosity, does one have to buy these at the Martin factory? Or is there another way?

Call Martin's 800 number and ask for the Guitar Makers connection, talk to Gail, she will tell you if what you need is available and tell you what the issues are that got it culled from production. They take all major credit cards, and the shipping is quick. They have just about every part used in a Martin guitar and if it isn't available that day it will soon show up. I have used their necks, truss rods and neck blocks and have not been unhappy with what I got.

Fred

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Fred Tellier
http://www.fetellierguitars.com
Facebook page http://www.facebook.com/pages/FE-Tellier-Guitars/163451547003866

Hi JR,
If you didn't mind using an "add on" volute you could do a modified bridle joint and avoid the scarf on the back of the neck. You would also have to remove or laminate over the peghead overlay, but you might end up with a neck that would look fine on any guitar.

That's a good point. The process I described above was the simplest method I could come up with., but I was going to work on a volute/V joint next for the reasons you stated.

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If you can't do something well, learn to enjoy doing it poorly.

As Fred said, you can get their number from Martins web site then ask for Guitar Makers Connection. Blues Creek also has them in stock.

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If you can't do something well, learn to enjoy doing it poorly.

Hey Jim, thanks for taking the time to spell this out for me.
I've picked up some of those necks on ebay, but being a sucker for 12 fretters haven't used any yet. Now they can be used for good!

Joe

Just as a point of interest, this is how Taylor guitars attach their head stocks.

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If you can't do something well, learn to enjoy doing it poorly.

nice demo Jim

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John Hall
blues creek guitars
Authorized CF Martin Repair
Co President of ASIA
You Don't know what you don't know until you know it

I thought Taylor used a finger joint to attach their headstocks. Am I wrong here? Are they doing something different now?

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Ken Franklin
clumsy yet persistent
https://www.kenfranklinukulele.com

I think they started with a scarf joint, and you're right they now use a finger joint.

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If you can't do something well, learn to enjoy doing it poorly.

Hi Guys
I was reading this thread with some interest, because at a swap meet I bought a John Watkins LP style semi hollowbody that was EIRosewood capped and mahog backed, routed for soapbar pu's and 2 tone/vol controls
and came with a 1pc mahog neck - however when I approached the project it became abundantly clear that it was not the proper neck for the project
The bridge and saddle locations were already drilled out for a 24 3/4" scale, which was fine with me as I wanted this scale anyhow... being sausaged fingered... but it precluded the option of adjusting scale wise,,, but anyhow>
Like I said I wanted a proper LP scale -
Now after alot of head scratching, contemplation, adjusting and reconfiguring adding zerofrets recalculating etc
I came to realize that I would have to remove about 1 1/2" of the neck to configure it in a trad 24 3/4" config.
Id like to use this neck - I could simply build one - but why bother if I have an easily salvageable prefab?
Now I saw the JRHall method and while helpful to some, it doesnt really interest me in that Id like to avoid the visible scarf on the neck.... this may end up being a gift and Id like it to be spiff
Im interested in the bridle joint and researched a pile of different bridle joint options -
(bridle joint sounds like something your wife would smoke on your wedding night ) and I see a few ways to possibly do this - however -

What would be your recomendations experienced builders???,,, please enlighten me? -

I really value the wisdom of those hoary with age,,,
And Id like to do this right.... any photos or completish/detailed descriptions would be really appreciated!
Thanks so Much in advance
Cheers
Charlie
PS before anyone asks me to simply contact John, and ask to have a proper neck sold to me or have one built - I did that and it wasnt possible/feasible unfortunately

Great Tutorial! That might help me with some of the goodies I picked up at the Guitar Makers Connection a couple of weeks ago. Thanks!

Also wanted to give a big thanks to Gail, and highly recommend stopping here if visiting Martin. Gail helped me sort through the piles of backs and side to pick a great set of sapele out. One little worm hole in the sides, that didn't even come into play on the OM I just took out of the mold today. And a nice Sitka top, with Herringbone rosette, with a little ding, that should steam out nicely.

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Rob