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I have searched the archive and not much luck.

I have seen some use Jig and some stated that they use router table.

How do you cut your truss rod channel? Can you share your method please.

Thank you, David

Dado on the table saw, 2 x 1/8" blades + .020" spacer for the Allied Lutherie rod, .400" deep.

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Laurent Brondel
West Paris, Maine - USA
http://www.laurentbrondel.com/

Howdy David,
I just have a router mounted in a router table. Using a 1/4" carbide bit I set the depth and distance from the fence using a scrap piece of wood. For the fence, I used a 2 X 4 and ran it through the jointer to square it up making it level, plumb, square and straight, clamp it where you need it to be on the router table. I then make a pencil mark on the neck and one on the fence where I want to stop routing. Pretty simple really.

Here's a couple pictures:

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Jack Batts Maker and Repairer of Fine Violins

Chuck, looks good. Any reason you leave the channel short and so much of the rod sticking out? For the truss rod to work properly, both ends need to register off the bottom of the channel and can't hang out there in mid air. Maybe this is just for demonstration purposes.

I use a router table with fence and a 1/4" up cut bit. I make one shallow pass (like 0.010") to kiss the surface to eliminate tear out. Than I go full depth of cut. I also clamp a feather board on the router table to keep the neck blank solid along the fence. I cut the channel through both ends of the neck as I adjust my truss rods at the headstock.

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Table saw - standard 1/8" blade - take one pass, move the fence, take another for 1/4" wide channel - use a 1/8 chisel to gently scrape any ridges left in the bottom of the channel.

I use a plow plane sometimes, when I don't feel like listening to a screaming router.

I use a vertical mill.....

takes about 3 minutes (including set up time!!)

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I prefer the Barry Daniels method, but I want one of those Martin Edwards machines, it doesn't look scream-y at all.

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I cut my slot on a #1 Bridgeport milling machine converted to run RPMs sufficient for
woodworking.

Regards,
Kevin Gallagher/Omega Guitars

1/4" spiral downcut bit (maybe upcut would clear chips better) in a bosch colt. i use the guide attachment that comes with it. i added a long piece of mdf to the fence to make it more stable. all surfaces have to be square of course.

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sweat the small stuff.

Table saw for truss rod and CF. If you jointer both edges of the neck, and they are parallel, you can flip the neck end for end eack pass to keep the channels centered and speed things up, if that makes sense.

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Jordan Aceto
Ithaca, NY

It makes sense to me Jordan, that's how make them too. As you say, this method ensures that the slots are centered and symmetrical in relation to the center line of the neck. I use a 3 mm blade and saw the middle of the truss rod slot first, move the fence over half the distance of the remaining required slot width and make the next cut in the same direction, flip the blank end for end and make the next cut. Ideally, that’s it.

Note the if the edges of the neck blank are not parallel, this will transfer to tapered slots when you flip it end for end…

I extend the carbon fiber bars all the way to the front of the (un-veneered) peghead, and I glue in a filler piece at the end of the truss rod slot.

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Milling machine, only cause I have one available. Otherwise, I would probably use the table saw.

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"Music is what feelings sound like"