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PostPosted: Sat Jan 31, 2009 4:11 pm 
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My first needs binding channels. I've done a lot of routing and was planning to free-hand them but I chickened out - mostly because I've done so much free-hand routing over the years. oops_sign

So now I'm building a binding jig similar to the LMI Universal Binding Machine. I've got the carriage done and am working on the tower assembly right now - it all seems pretty straight forward except for the shoe that contacts the guitar. I plan to use UHMW and I can turn it on a lathe if needed but I'd like some advice on optimum shapes, dimensions, or maybe things to watch out for. Photos with rulers, etc. would be great if you have them.

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 31, 2009 6:56 pm 
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Just to clarify a bit. As usual I'm probably over-thinking this. Also, didn't mean to give the impression that I had to have a photo, they're just nice if available.

1. Obviously the center hole needs to be large enough for the 1" bit (LMI type). Maybe 1.1" or is that too loose?

2. Should the surface of the shoe be round or rectangular - or does it matter? Right now I'm thinking round cause I can cut it on the lathe.

3. Should the surface of the shoe that contacts the guitar surface be perpendicular to the binding bit or slightly angled? And, how wide should that contact surface be? Seems like if the contact surface is too wide then the binding channel may not be deep enough where the radius is smaller like the back. Is 1/2" too wide? If the contact surface is too narrow I would be worried that the router would tend to slip off the edge of the guitar.

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 31, 2009 7:09 pm 
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lot of folks refer to as the "donut" due round with a hole in the middle.  I have plans from Galloups rigs he gave me and calls for I think 10" convex dome, about 3" diameter. Your right with about 1" center hole for bit. Just replaces the base of your lam trimmer.  I will find the plans and make sure right.


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 31, 2009 7:13 pm 
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The hole just needs to be big enough for the cutter to pass through and not swipe the sides, not super critical. I had a hole saw that was just about right.

Usually it is round, again a hole saw is handy and quick.

The contact surface should be as small as it can be without being sharp enough to dent a softwood top. About 1/8" or even a little bigger is probably fine. 1/2" is a little too big i think.

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 31, 2009 7:34 pm 
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Thanks guys, that helps a lot. I've got the wood cut out, just have to glue and screw it together. I've got some 1/4" aluminum I can use for the base plate.

I think Chris P. ended up putting a counterweight on his. Is anyone else doing that or is it not needed? It wouldn't be too hard to do. BTW I'm using a Bosch Colt on this one.

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PostPosted: Sun Feb 01, 2009 10:35 am 
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Neat idea of using the table saw for milling. Thanks for posting that Todd. Ibe using that for making my donut in the future.
As far as the counter weight, It all depends on how heavy you router and carrage is. Mine was just too heavy as it was starting to leave a witness mark on the soft spruce. That's something you will have to determine, you obviously want some down pressure just not too mush. I also put a wood spacer bolck under the router carrage to prevent the router from sliding all the way down and hitting the table top when the guitar it removed from under the router.


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 01, 2009 3:30 pm 
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Todd Stock wrote:
The max slope you'll see on a long body with a tight back radius (15') is about 7 degrees on the back near the heel, so using a 10-12 degree angle when milling the donut will take care of any clearance issues. 1/4" aluminum is good for the base, and gives you more usable depth when using the shorter SM bit set. With a Bosch Colt, the base mounting screws will be outside the donut if you keep the diameter under 3-1/2"...makes getting the router off the jig easier if you cannot dedicate it to just that jig.

Here's a 12 step procedure for milling a donut.

I use UHMW plastic, which is a little slicker than corian and mills a lot easier, but does not take as fine a polish. An alternative is Delrin, which is slicker than slick, much cleaner cutting, and about four times the cost.

Easy to make on the table saw. I need to do one of these for a jig I'm making, so easy to do a second if you need one.

...


Hi Todd,

I am about to build a Williams/Fleshman jig for routing the binding on my first guitar. A pair of "Full Extension Drawer Slides" and a 12" Lazy Susan from Woodcraft are already on their way to Europe. :)
One of the things I am very unsure about is how I am going to attach the Bosch GKF 600 and how I will make a suitable donut.
So I would be more than thrilled and happy if you could consider making another of these donuts for me. :?
Please PM me for details if you are interested...


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 01, 2009 5:12 pm 
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Great information from everyone. Todd, thanks for the details, they're a big help and I'm sure they'll be useful to others. I've got a lot going on this week but hopefully I can carve out enough time to finish up this jig now that I know what needs to be done.

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PostPosted: Sun Feb 08, 2009 8:26 pm 
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Got the binding jig completed this afternoon. I still need to test it. Yes, I know there is no bearing on the bit yet. Hopefully I'll get my binding and purfling channels cut in the next several days.
Attachment:
BindingJigMtPlate.JPG

I found a decent deal on a refurbished Bosch Colt for this jig.
Attachment:
BindingJig.JPG


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 09, 2009 1:31 am 
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Wow. THAT LOOKS LIKE A REALLY NICE JIG. bliss [:Y:]

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 09, 2009 11:00 am 
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Thanks Nick. I'm lucky enough to have access to a small lathe and milling machine which makes these kinds of tasks much easier. I just hope it works as well as it looks; I'm pretty nervous about actually putting it on the guitar.

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 09, 2009 3:23 pm 
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If it slides up and down easy and the unit is square to the table and you anchor it then it's a piece of cake. Set the guitar correctly in the cradle and route in the correct directions and segments and you will be surprized just how easy it works.


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 09, 2009 4:09 pm 
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Hi Chris. It's square, stable and smooth so no problem there. By correct directions/segments I assume you're talking about making the 4 climb cuts followed by a full cut in the regular direction as shown in the StewMac jig instructions?
http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Tools/Special_tools_for:_Binding/1/TrueChannel_Binding_Routing_Jig/Instructions/I-5653.html#details

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 09, 2009 6:19 pm 
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Yeah or as I say from the high point to the low point. The Wide part of the bout to the waste and the wide part of the bout to the neck block or tail block depending on which high/wide point of the bout you are at. There's always my tutorial in the video/tutorial section which is on that type of binding machine.


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 09, 2009 6:48 pm 
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I forgot about the toot you did. I'll check it out and go route that puppy.

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 09, 2009 6:51 pm 
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That's the spirit! ;)


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 09, 2009 8:46 pm 
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Thanks for the help you guys, it came out good! bliss
Attachment:
BindingChannel.JPG


Ebony binding with .030" BWB purfling
Attachment:
BindingTestFit.JPG


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 09, 2009 8:59 pm 
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Wasn't worth all that worry was it? I wish I had the bearings and bit.


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 09, 2009 11:01 pm 
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Hey Steve --

Looks like your diligence paid off -- the jig looks very well made, and the results confirm it!

Where in E. Tenn. are ya? I'm in Asheville, grew up in Bristol.

Ken

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 10, 2009 7:28 am 
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Wasn't worth all that worry was it?
I tend to do that at the critical stages of any project until I'm reasonably sure I can do the task without screwing up. The jig did work real well so I sure won't be as concerned next time.

I wish I had the bearings and bit.
They definitely make it easier to route to an accurate depth. Another thing I thought was real helpful was the 3 1/2" diameter donut, recommended by Todd Stock, which made it easy to pull the body away from the bit without having to worry about the router/carriage assembly falling. I also added an adjustable stop to limit the downward travel of the router/carriage.

Hey Ken, thanks. I'm in Lenoir City which is just west of Knoxville. I like Asheville, it's a real nice town.

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 10, 2009 8:46 am 
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If you add a lock along with the stop you can use it as a small pin router too. Check out Ken Chason's sit and give a look at his pin router to get an idea of one way to set it up if interested.


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 10, 2009 9:16 am 
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Good idea, I'll check Ken's site. Thanks!

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