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OK, so I've polished by hand. That's the method I've used my whole life and I've usually been quite satisfied. However I want to get a more consistent sheen that I seem to be able to by hand rubbing. So I've decided to machine polish.

I've got a pair of foam pads (one for each grade medium and fine) I've wet sanded to 1,500 and that looks terrific. I hand polished and it's not consistent like I said. So onto my question:

How quickly does the polish go through the finish when machine buffing? Am I looking at a potential to foul up my finish work by over doing it easily or not. I've always had a light hand, so I'm not going to bear into it or anything but, in other words, does this work like a belt sander or a palm sander...if you get my drift.

Also, any suggested target RPM?

Thanks!

Sounds like you are going to be using a drill or similar ... I have never done this before as I went form hand polisjhing to a wheel type. But power buffing is a combination of RPM and pressure. I would say you will need somewhere in 1000 plus range to get things working, or you will be spending longer with the buff itself to get the polish working.

All I can really tell you it will take some practice to get used to how the buffing setup works for you. You have to get a feel for it ....

_________________
Tony Karol
www.karol-guitars.com
"let my passion .. fulfill yours"

Assuming your finish thickness is not compromised anywhere re-buffing using foam pads and liquid compounds is not likely to cause you any problems. It should be more consistent than your hand buffing. However power wheel buffing as in 12" or 14" canton cotton wheels at 1000 to 1400 rpm is by far the best way to get the wet look. Your final buffing should be with the grain to really get that deep wet look. Remember that the compounds are abrasives. Work for heavy to light removing the micro scratches form the previous grits. While an electric hand Drill will polish out more than by hand the rpm is still on the low side. Heavy duty hand held grinder buffer works better and of course powered high speed wheels work best. it take a bit of experience to get the feel of the proper tension between the buffer and the finish but it is key to keep moving. Heat build up is what damages finishes so don't stay in a small area very long at a time.

Heaps of factors to consider. One is how coarse the polish is. The other is the coarseness of the foam pad and it's density.

I use a med. density Autoglym pad chucked in my drill press. An entire guitar sanded out to P1000 will take about 1/2 hour to get to look like glass. I use a med. grade cut polish, followed by a fine cut. Be careful at the edges. In fact try not to polish them. You will a little, and that is usually more than enough.

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Allen R. McFarlen
Barron River Guitars & Ukuleles
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Cairns, Australia

Good points. I'm using the foam pads from Stew-Mac and the medium and fine colortone polishes.

Hi Guys,
And sorry Joe if this seems to be hijacking your thread, but I've been recommended Meguiars Scratch and Swirl remover for the initial cut back on the guitar, and then their polish over the top. I intend to do this with a lambswool mop in a pistol drill, how would you approach this? Or should I use a foam pad that goes on an angle grinder for this?

Thanks

_________________
Formerly JJH

I learn more from my mistakes than my successes