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PostPosted: Fri Jan 02, 2009 10:29 pm 
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Koa
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Lets see em! I need some ideas. I need something fast, I want to use hhg. :geek:

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 03, 2009 12:03 am 
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Location: United States
First name: Waddy
Last Name: Thomson
City: Charlotte
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Here's mine.
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 03, 2009 1:37 am 
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Location: Houston, TX
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Cool idea Waddy. What do you have on the bottoms of the eye bolts so it doesn't dig in the flappers?

I bought a Stew-Mac clamp, but I'd like to make on like you have.

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 03, 2009 1:39 am 
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Koa
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I have seen friendly plastic used to form to the bridge, so maybe just a straight across the top, with bolts?

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 03, 2009 7:41 am 
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Old Growth Brazilian Rosewood
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Location: Ann Arbor, Michigan
First name: Hesh
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Mine is not home made and from Stew-Mac but I did add a mod to it so that it works better for me and how I glue bridges on.

I use the steel registration pins from LMI to pin the bridge in position and so that I can relocate the bridge very fast in it's proper/desired position while gluing it on with HHG. The pins can be a pain to remove if you don't get them out after say 10 minutes even though a soldering iron and heating them helps I wanted to eliminate the need to get out the soldering iron. So I drilled two holes in my caul that the pins pass through and that permit me to pull the pins without disturbing the caul. It works great.
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 03, 2009 10:11 am 
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ChuckH wrote:
Cool idea Waddy. What do you have on the bottoms of the eye bolts so it doesn't dig in the flappers?

I bought a Stew-Mac clamp, but I'd like to make on like you have.


Nothing. The eye-bolts are machine screws, and the tips are fairly flat. I can't remember if I ground them smooth or not. I can though if I feel like they are digging in. I really didn't consider it a problem.

It's not an original design. I believe Sloane used something like this. I know I saw it in a book somewhere.

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 03, 2009 10:31 am 
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Cocobolo
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The one on top is made from wood, a couple of brass inserts, and a couple of bolts and threaded rod with wing nuts (could use bolts and wing nuts). I got it from KMG (kennethmichaelguitars.com) with his bridge setter jig. It would be easy to make.

The lower one is the same style made from aluminum. I bought it at LMI.

The thing I like about this style is that you don't need to use clamps through the sound hole. That makes it easier to clean the glue squeeze out.


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 03, 2009 3:18 pm 
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Koa
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Alan wrote:
The one on top is made from wood, a couple of brass inserts, and a couple of bolts and threaded rod with wing nuts (could use bolts and wing nuts). I got it from KMG (kennethmichaelguitars.com) with his bridge setter jig. It would be easy to make.

The lower one is the same style made from aluminum. I bought it at LMI.

The thing I like about this style is that you don't need to use clamps through the sound hole. That makes it easier to clean the glue squeeze out.


Do you use this one with HHG? I can't imaging they are that hard to make.

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 03, 2009 3:33 pm 
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Frei....No I haven't tried it with HHG yet. I bought some HHG a while back, but haven't used it yet. I guess that I just like the convenience of the LMI white or Titebond. No preparation required, just squeeze it out.

You are right, the clamp would be very easy to make.


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 03, 2009 4:58 pm 
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I could see using the wingnuts only if the bridge was pre-installed with them on one turn or so, so you would just tighten them, that would be maybe 30 seconds.

Heat the bridge in an oven to 150 would help also.

I have a stiff aluminum bar, but a rosewood bridge-blank would be just as good I bet.

What size drill bit to drill out the bridge holes?

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 03, 2009 7:03 pm 
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Cocobolo
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I use a 3/16" bit. Use a little wax or soap on the threads of the bolts so that the glue doesn't stick to them. Makes it easier to get them out.


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