Official Luthiers Forum!

Does anybody here cut their braces in advance? Or should you just cut them as you need them. If so, would they warp or twist?

I'm currently building a mahogany back and sides with sitka top. Yesterday I was out in the pole barn cutting braces with the table saw and it occured to me that I should go ahead on and rip up a few more braces for my next build. Since the fence on the saw was exactly where I needed it I did.

Thanks for the replies,
Chuck

_________________
"After forty-nine years of violin building, I have decided that the search for a varnish is similar to the fox hunt. The fun is in the hunt."
Jack Batts Maker and Repairer of Fine Violins

Chuck bro yes when I can remember to do so. I saw my brace stock and then dimension it in the thickness sander, make one guitar sets, and label. Kind of makes me feel like a f*ctory........

_________________
Ann Arbor Guitars

I usually buy brace stock in bulk, and process it all at one time - but save a few pieces for something unusual if needed. I haven't had any issues doing it like this. Saves lots of time later

_________________
John Ressler

I am the same I process my braces as I need them. I just figure if I pre processed them the temptation to just grab a set off the shelf and go would be greater rather than selecting based on attributes of specific brace stock at the time of the build

I process my braces in fairly large batches to a starting dimension. From there I can uniformly check them for stiffness and proceed. My top brace stock is all addy and shaped on my oscillating drum sander to an "A" shape except for where they cross.
My ladder brace stop os also processed in a large batch and cut to an "A" shape on the bandsaw since there is no joint or cross.

_________________
Tickle your guitar daily, and it'll tickle you back.

I recently spent a whole day splitting and planing a zillion braces from several different types of spruce. I picked the ones I liked, and separated into roughly 3 categories: "light and reasonably stiff", "heavy, tight grain, stiff" and "OMG AWESOME" while the rubbery ones will make good fire starters. I now probably have enough for the next 3 or 4 guitars. I think it is very educational to make a bunch and compare them. I also tend to think it is better to play a bit with them when pairing. perpahs those very heavy heavy tops would benefit from low density braces, and vice versa. Of course you can use dense braces and make them thinner, but it should sound a little different. When you eventually learn (or believe you did) what changes these do to your tone, you can claim you can voice a guitar according to your customers needs.

_________________
Build log

I date all woods that come in.
I cut the older brace stock into specific braces.
fans-lite and stiff-
#1 &#2 braces for a classical are cut from the same stock if possible.

X's have to be stiff and light also -LUTZ shines here.
Backs are not as important stiffness & weight wise.
So all that stock goes to them.
I use Red Cedar also for classical braces because of it's weight but really have to search for the stiff stuff.

I cut Sp.Cedar for all my classical back braces.
I think the air circulating around the cut braces for years also helps to age them well & make them weigh less .

Mike

_________________
Mike Collins

I usually cook 2 or 3 tops at a time for the next few builds and cut more than enough brace stock for all of these then and bake them along with the tops I rough cut the brace stock large to go in the oven. After a few weeks of recalibration in the shop I cut them all to the same dimensions and test them for weight and stiffness. I just write it right on them with a pencil. After they are all tested I group them into batches based on where they will go on the guitar and tape them together for the next couple builds. I am picky about the stock, sometimes I discard half of what I test. Before it is discarded though it will go through a couple more rounds of testing. If a brace is reasonable but on the fence of my target I will put it aside until I cook up another batch and run it again then. Sometimes it changes slightly, sometimes not at all. I have been using red spruce pretty much exclusively for tops and backs. Within my test results (which is mostly wood from the same place) I am finding like Al has said that density equals stiffness(assuming of course no run out on either face). In this next batch I cut some Carpathian and Swiss spruce and I am interested to see where it falls.

_________________
Burton
http://www.legeytinstruments.com
Brookline, MA.

When I first started I thought making large batches of parts was smart (and it probably is) but the repetition bugged me. I also felt like a factory worker and over time evolved into making parts--braces, bridges, fretboards etc for my current batch of guitars only- usually two to four instruments. It's not as efficient but I stay in a better zone.
Terry

_________________
It's not what you don't know that hurts you, it's what you do know that's wrong.