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1. does the 2 sides of the face/back repersent the bass and the treble side what about middle grain at the seam?
No.
2. if i were to angle the heel to allow for extreme face warpage would there be any intonation or strength issues or other?
No - the angle of the neck should not impact tone. I would not recomend that. Learn to build traditionally before you try new things.
3. if the fretboard has warped (risen) from the 12th up ...is that the pressure at the heel causing it because of bad woods or is it just a bad neck joint or somthing else?
It is probably instability of the neck block. It is not holding up to the string forces, causing rotation of that area.
4. how low could you get the action using the stu mac aluminum radious sanding beam .... can you get ur strings less than the witth of the binding from the 12th fret without buzz?
I don't understand the question. Low action requires a very accurate neck/fretboard.
5. instead of compound radius fretboard sanding would you slightly taper your fretboard lower towards the soundhole?
The fretboard should be made with a slight taper. I don't think I understand the question.
6. do you need to level your frets after instalation .....if so i was going to use radious sanding beam .....but would it be better to sand the frets with strings on and high enough risers to fit over the sanding beam would the extra height of risers make a bigger bow in the neck and if so should i adjust the truss rod or the string tension?
I have, on occasion built without needing to level the frets - OK it happened just once.
Yes - level the frets after fret installation, the radius sanding beam is a good tool for that. Have the strings off with the fretboard level. (There is some debate over this, but it is a good place for you to start.)
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"An adventure is only an inconvenience rightly considered. An inconvenience is an adventure wrongly considered." G. K. Chesterton.
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