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I was wondering if anyone has tried the archtop binding router guide from Stew Mac. It attaches to a Dremel and/or a Black & Decker Wizard. It looks like a fairly simple, inexpensive way to rout an archtop. Any thoughts? Here's the URL: http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Bindings,_t ... Guide.html

i used it on a flat top lol

its quite good (though i have nothing to compare it to) though getting the router bit to the correct depth was quite time consuming as it involved continually removing the jig, altering the depth, puting the jig back on, checking it on some scrap, then repating till it was the correct depth. anyone got a better way?

personally, i think i should have got the attachment for the router base, but i think that that binding router guide is perfectly suited to an archtop. then again, dont listen to what i say, i dont know alot.

cheers

Jonny

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It is possible that some people can get good results with this tool, I thought it was awful (tried it on one mandolin, quickly decided it wasn't for me). I get much better results with a router table set up, more or less as shown on this Stewmac instructional page.

http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Tools/Routing_bits/1/Binding_Router_Bit_Set/Instructions/I-1298.html#details

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I have one and never used it. I ended up buying bits for my router and making a router jig. An archtop is a complicated topology. I wanted the best method with little chance of mistakes.

If your intrested in the one you posted a link to, I have one available and will save you a few dollars.

Joe

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Joe

So maybe I'll bite the bullet and just get a router. I'm just always so confused about the tables. They always have all this extra junk on them like fences, etc...! I want one like Benedetto has. It's a flat table with the router bit sticking up in the middle. Kind of like the pics on the Stew Mac site. Do they sell tables like this, or do I have to make one? Anyone have any tips if I just want a plain table top (no frills) with just the router sticking up from the middle?

I've had one for several years and only used it for binding head stocks.

The real issue, as I see it, is any binding cutter jig that relies on a Dremel. A Dremel IMHO is just not powerful enough for cutting binding channels when compared to a laminate trimmer.

Hi "archtop"-(I would use your name if I knew it),

You can get PERFECT results with the "Bennedetto" method.
I have done it this way for many guitars and it works great.
My "router table" is simply a hole in a piece of plywood (it happens to be the side extension of my table saw) covered with plastic laminate ,onto which I screw a little raised piece of wood (I believe Bob uses Delrin plastic). The router base is permanently bolted under the table and I have another base to use it as a regular router. The height of the little piece has to be the difference between your arh and your edge-in other words if your top stars out as 1" thick and your edge is 3/16",the piece shoud be 13/16" high.
Bob had a custom router bit made that cuts the purfling and binding ledge in one shot-but it's pretty simple just to change bits.

Hope this helps.

I have one too. At first it was very difficult for me to keep the tool vertical. Especially in the cutaway area. If it tips inwards you get a wider channel. Then I modified it by making a longer brass bearing/tube and by pressing it with the fingers on to the sides it is much easier to use it.
Then I made the Williams/Fleishman jig and the router table setup. For archtop guitars the Benedetto method works better for me.....

Is there a link with photos that show the Benedetto set up ?

There is a picture of Benedettos in his book.


Esentially it is a bit used in a table top setup. The bit points upward. The bit has a larger bearing on the bottom that the guitar sits. This is the same idea as the donut used on an overhead version. Then the bit has a two level cutter (one for binding and one for perf) and finally the bearing for the guide along the sides.

Here is a quick drawing.



To be honest, watching the Benedetto videos, I really have concerns with this method. It relies on holding the guitar perfectly level while resting on the teflon bearing. Watching Bob, I wonder how his channels come out even. Also watching the video, I am surprised he still has all his fingers.

J

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Joe

Actually in practice I find the whole setup to be very stable and safe.
Becuse the highest part of the arch and the edge are the only part in contact with the jig it is suprisingly easy to keep it level. I am VERY picky about my binding channel-I assure you I get PERFECT results!
I keep my hands on the far side of the guitar nowhere near the router bit.
I also have the Wlliams/Fleischman jig which I prefer to use on flattops.

I bound my first archtop build this week.

I used a standard binding cutter in a precision drill press.

it was an unmitigated disaster!!

I think the guitar will be painted as i THINK there'll be a bit of filler needed

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