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A little tip I got from Hesh, who in turn got it from Mario (really, who has better tips than Grumpy?)...

Instead of cutting the overhang flush to the sides, you can actually take it in a bit further. I know you need to be properly tooled up for this, but any kind of jig where you can select the depth of cut would do. I guess you could always use bearing sets and use a size that would still give you enough leeway with the binding thickness...

This way, you don't have to contend with sanding the top or back plates' endgrain.

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I'd like to be able to prove, just for once, that money wouldn't make me happy...

This is Great! Seeing the pictures makes it easier to understand. Thanks Todd!

Is there a reason why you use Norton 3M or 3X?

David

Todd, any chance of a clear view of your vise? Is that thick foam on the jaws?

Thank you.

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Dan
http://www.acme-archtops.com

Dan, I can help you out,

Here's a picture of the guitar trojy (trogy, trogi troji) that I made and some plans I drew up in order to make one.





Todd has a better screw thread and handle than mine I think and here's a link to a recent thread on the troji handle.

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My Facebook Guitar Page

"There's really no wrong way, as long as the results are what's desired." Charles Fox

"We have to constantly remind ourselves what we're doing....No Luthier is putting a man on the moon!" Harry Fleishman

"Generosity is always different in the eye of the person who didn't receive anything, but who wanted some." Waddy Thomson

I scrape.

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Howard Klepper
http://www.klepperguitars.com

When all else fails, clean the shop.

use scraper and make sure edge to edge no gaps,bumps, etc.

Rod, thank you so much!

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Dan
http://www.acme-archtops.com

Scraper here as well. My philosophy is always use an edge tool in preference to abrasives.

Colin

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I don't believe in anything, I simply make use of a set of reasonable working hypotheses.