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In the FRETS article, all he used was the Shellac, nothing else. So is pore filling with (KTM-9) ok to use with shellac on top? Or just go with the shellac. I'm not looking for perfect.

I think I might be coming in late on this. Are you saying to pore fill with KTM-9 then finish with shellac?

Probably not what you are saying but..... KTM 9 is not a pore filler. You would have to spray many many coats and sand back off to fill the pores. Not the way to go. I don't think you want to use KTM 9 and shellac together although I sure some might.

I'd say fill the pores with epoxy (preferred) or with one of the water based fillers and spray KTM 9 directly over it. No sealer, no shellac.

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Joe Beaver
Maker of Sawdust

I meant to post this same thing earlier and somehow forgot. Right about 5 or 6" tops for spraying. I had the exact same thing happen the first time I sprayed USL.

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http://www.birkonium.com CNC Products for Luthiers
http://banduramaker.blogspot.com

Oh, I thought KTM-9 was the epoxy filler. I will be using a brush, no sprayer just yet.

I have had big time adhesion issues using the Target Coating StewMac waterborne variety and freshly made shellac. Could never figure it out even after months of trying. I did not sand the shellac before spraying the waterborne laquer so perhaps that would make a difference. It is still voodoo for me right now, so I only use EM6000 over Target Coating's own grain filler. Never a problem if done this way.

Bill

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Formerly know as Mandodiddle.

It seems to me that water based shellac would be more appropriate with a waterborne lacquer. It is not difficult to make. Dissolve shellac flakes in a borax solution.

Supposedly it can also be made by dissolving shellac into ammonia, but I haven't tried this. Sounds smelly, and ammonia will darken some woods.

Incidentally, for today's free tip: throwing some 20 Mule Team borax in with the wash will remove shellac that has dribbled from your FP bottle onto your blue jeans.
This used to come in handy when I FP'd furniture using the lay-it-on-fast method.

Both KTM-9, Crystallac (admittedly an older formulation, the one StewMac used to sell) and whatever Target product StewMac used to market as Colortone WB lacquer after they dropped Crystallac, have reacted with my skin chemistry somewhat. On two electric necks this results in slightly 'friction-y' necks (these were straight crystallac on wood). On the acoustic, which gets played a LOT more, and was sealed with shellac (fresh batch of dewaxed mixed in alcohol, sanded before spraying finish coats), the part of the finish under the right arm plasticized, went soft and peeled off (this was the Target stuff). I can keep picking parts off of it if I try. The shellac seal coat is intact and has absolutely no damage, and the shellac'ed neck on that guitar still feels as good as it did the day I completed it.

I don't know if it's an adhesion thing (possibly...I can't remember if I sealed the others or not), and I suspect it's mostly a skin chemistry thing. Another electric I built for a friend (sealed with shellac as well) is holding up great and feels great, and gets played daily. But not with my skin. At this point, despite toxicity issues, I'd rather stick with solvent-based finishes (Nitro, may try some 2K auto poly for my next electric with a color paintjobbie) than keep getting frustrated by poor durability. And if I won't use it on my personal guitars, I also won't on one I build for others.