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PostPosted: Mon Jan 25, 2010 2:25 am 
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Walnut
Walnut

Joined: Fri Jan 15, 2010 10:18 pm
Posts: 7
First name: Anthony
Last Name: Thompson
Country: Australia
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
Im an idiot. :oops: [headinwall]

Just remembered your blogging. Checked your blogged and what do you know, it answers all my questions..

Cheers
Anthony


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 25, 2010 11:08 pm 
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Koa
Koa

Joined: Sun Oct 28, 2007 4:40 pm
Posts: 763
Location: United States
I had essentially no woodworking experience. On my first guitar, I made mistakes every day. Luckily I was in a class and the next time I saw Robbie, he'd show me how to fix it. Yes, I learned to make a guitar, but I also learned you can fix pretty much anything. On my second, I made far fewer mistakes. Hopefully it will be a trend.

Mike

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Mike Lindstrom


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 26, 2010 12:58 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
Brazilian Rosewood

Joined: Thu Feb 12, 2009 10:27 pm
Posts: 2109
Location: South Carolina
First name: John
Last Name: Cox
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
I would recommend making yourself up a toothing iron.

You can get a #4/#5 size replacement iron at Home Depot for $2.97 -- Grind some shallow notches in it with your dremel (1/16" apart)... Resharpen to razor sharp... and off you go! You will wonder where this wonderful iron was all your life.

So.. 1st you tooth, then you take a plane with a medium/fine set and clean off the grooves... then tooth over it again... Makes it very easy to thin down a plate by hand. (Well, as easy as it gets with a Plane.. It takes me ~3 hrs to do a back by hand)

Here's a pic of my home made toother in my #5.
Attachment:
Ditson build 007.jpg


Keep on going!

Thanks

John


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 26, 2010 1:21 am 
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Walnut
Walnut

Joined: Wed Dec 09, 2009 1:31 am
Posts: 12
truckjohn wrote:
I would recommend making yourself up a toothing iron.

You can get a #4/#5 size replacement iron at Home Depot for $2.97 -- Grind some shallow notches in it with your dremel (1/16" apart)... Resharpen to razor sharp... and off you go! You will wonder where this wonderful iron was all your life.

So.. 1st you tooth, then you take a plane with a medium/fine set and clean off the grooves... then tooth over it again... Makes it very easy to thin down a plate by hand. (Well, as easy as it gets with a Plane.. It takes me ~3 hrs to do a back by hand)

Here's a pic of my home made toother in my #5.
Attachment:
Ditson build 007.jpg


Keep on going!

Thanks

John

I've been thinking about doing this but didnt know if those blades at home depot would fit. Do you see less chip/tear out?


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 26, 2010 10:13 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
Brazilian Rosewood

Joined: Thu Feb 12, 2009 10:27 pm
Posts: 2109
Location: South Carolina
First name: John
Last Name: Cox
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
Luke,

Far less tearout. I basically can't thin down hardwoods without the toother.... especially when the plates start getting thin and flexible. One thing, though... If you are still having trouble with too much chatter... you may need to replace those old Chip Breakers with thick Hock units. I have had to do this on most of my old planes now, and it makes a world of difference (Though I still run the original irons.)

For $2.97... What do you have to loose? Those cheap irons will fit most any "Standard" Stanley pattern #4 or #5 plane. They may be too thin to run in a Clifton, LN, Veritas, etc... but work great in your run of the mill Stanley, Millers Falls, Sargeant, Footprint, Groz, Anant, and myriad other vanilla Stanley knockoffs.

I run a couple planes for plate thinning duty...
#5 -- gets the Toother
#4 -- set for transparent, thin shavings for smoothing duty
#7 (Really a Millers Falls #22) -- Set for taking shavings a little thicker than the #4 for thinning after the toother.

In normal thinning, I will alternate between the #5 toother and the #22 for stock removal, then finish up with the #4 (To smooth down any remaining tool marks) before measuring all over the plate, knocking down high spots, and flipping it over.

Keeping the irons sharp is also extremely important. I made up a strop out of a scrap of shoe leather -- and I strop regularly to retain the sharp edge between honings (Especially on Spruce and Cedar.) I found that without stropping, I would wait too long between sharpenings... and only end up sharpening when it was quite dull and wouldn't cut right anymore.... and then I would spend an entire night sharpening... Now, I strop and am back to work in a couple minutes.

Thanks

John


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 26, 2010 10:57 am 
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Contributing Member
Contributing Member
User avatar

Joined: Mon Mar 19, 2007 7:05 am
Posts: 9191
Location: United States
First name: Waddy
Last Name: Thomson
City: Charlotte
State: NC
Focus: Build
Status: Semi-pro
Lee Valley sell toothing irons for their planes. Don't know if they have replacement toothed blades for other planes or not. Worth a check.

_________________
Waddy

Photobucket Build Album Library

Sound Clips of most of my guitars


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 26, 2010 2:53 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
Brazilian Rosewood

Joined: Fri Nov 03, 2006 6:50 pm
Posts: 2711
Location: Victoria, BC
First name: John
Last Name: Abercrombie
Status: Amateur
Home-made toothing blades do work.
When you use the Dremel (cutoff wheel) to put the 'groove' in the back of the blade, be sure to avoid overheating the blade. A spray with water from time to time will help- and you don't need to go much deeper than your shaving thickness.
AND- eye protection is a must any time you are using those cutoff wheels- the least bit of side pressure will snap them.
Cheers
John


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 27, 2010 8:49 am 
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Koa
Koa

Joined: Tue Feb 24, 2009 9:23 am
Posts: 1372
First name: Corky
Last Name: Long
City: Mount Kisco
State: NY
Country: USA
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
Luke wrote:
I decided to step away for a good majority of the friday and saturday. Got relaxed and really tried not to think about all the steps coming that might be hard but rather I thought about the things I've already done and how I only needed to change some MINOR things to increase the quality of the results of those processes significantly. Really allowed me to see that although this is definitely a tough project, that I can do it. Thanks to everyone for the encouragement.

runamuck wrote:
I'm impressed with the generosity of people on this site but I wonder if it's misplaced.

I'm frusterated and confused that a person with no previous woodworking experience
would take on a project like a guitar and expect anything but a nearly impassable road.


Why does one ever start anything? Sure I could start with small things, but my heart won't be in it, my efforts would be misplaced. With proper guidance and encouragement and resources anyone can accomplish nearly anything.



On a side note (pun), I bent some sides.



Good for you, Luke!! Great attitiude. I couldn't agree more - I felt the same way about my first guitar. I could have started with a kit, but didn't. I could have started with prebent sides and binding, but ultimately that was far less interesting than the charge I got out of doing it from scratch. The finished product was anthing but perfect. But getting it done felt like nothing I've ever felt before.

And guitar #2 was 100% better, with only 25 mistakes :lol:

When has anything worth doing been easy?


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