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PostPosted: Thu Jan 16, 2014 1:29 am 
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Location: chicagoland, illinois
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So I have another question: how important is it that fret board wood be quarter sawn? I have plenty of bloodwood in the shop, but my board is flat sawn. Does that cause a problem for fret boards?

the fret board, being thin as it is, is not really a structural component of the neck, so the grain orientation shouldn't matter much. as we have recently seen on the forum, fingerboards can split in the fretting process; flatsawn wood should be much less likely to do so.


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 16, 2014 1:48 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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Location: Taiwan
First name: Tai
Last Name: Fu
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Focus: Repair
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If this is your first guitar, you should be using good beginner woods (something cheap and relatively easy to work with, such as EIR). It would have been better to go with ebony or EIR simply because if you mess up on those, you are out less money than ziricote.

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 16, 2014 10:56 am 
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Cocobolo
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First name: Phil
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Tai Fu wrote:
If this is your first guitar, you should be using good beginner woods (something cheap and relatively easy to work with, such as EIR). It would have been better to go with ebony or EIR simply because if you mess up on those, you are out less money than ziricote.


Hey Tai, interesting comment. When I decided what I wanted this first one to look like, zircote was pretty cheap at 12 bucks a blank for fret boards. Then, sometime between the start of the project and when I got around to ordering wood, Gibson got raided and the next thing I knew the price doubled overnight. That was a hard pill to swallow, but since I had already put zircote on the head stock of my first two, I went with it. Little did I know I would mess two up, have to buy two more, then have all that trouble with splits and chips. So cost wise, what started out as something cheap has turned into a financial nightmare!

Oh well, the wood is pretty, and if anyone asks, I can honestly say this one is a $70 fret board. But maybe I just won't explain why... :roll:

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