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PostPosted: Wed Nov 27, 2013 1:00 pm 
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First name: John
Last Name: Arnold
City: Newport
State: TN
Zip/Postal Code: 37821
Country: USA
Focus: Repair
Status: Professional
Quote:
I've been doing these minor adjustment for years

So have I. I generally don't adjust tension, but I do occasionally adjust the tracking while the saw is running. On some saws, the tracking adjustment is so ticklish that I would not recommend it. But that has not been true with my resaw.
The tension adjustment outlined by Suffolk can be done by turning the saw off, adjusting, and running it briefly to test for blade flutter. Once you determine the setting, it is not necessary to do it again...as long as you use similar blades.
My resaw (Makita 16" X 2") is sturdy enough that the tracking does not change much (if any) when the blade tension is adjusted.
I also have had some scary moments when a thin piece of wood was 'sucked' into the opening in the table. The original insert was lauan plywood, but the slot for the blade had been chewed out too wide. One feature I do like is that the insert is attached to the table with two countersunk screws
The oval opening in the table on my saw is pretty small, and I make the inserts out of a thick piece of dogwood that is rabbeted on the back side. The first one I made was QS black locust, which proved to be too brittle. It finally split along a grain line. Dogwood is much tougher, and I cut it with the grain skewed so that the slot for the blade won't weaken it as much.

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 27, 2013 1:04 pm 
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Location: Taiwan
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Turning the saw on and off to do the Timberwolf tension adjustment would work if you either have a small 10" or 14" saw where the blade winds down quickly, or a larger saw with foot brake. My saw doesn't have a foot brake and the saw literally takes a whole minute before it comes to a complete stop.

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Cat-gut strings are made from kitten guts, stretched out to near breaking point and then hardened with grue saliva. As a result these give a feeling of Pain and anguish whenever played, and often end up playing themselves backwards as part of satanic rituals.

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 27, 2013 1:09 pm 
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Is it possible to retrofit an existing bandsaw for a brake? I hate swapping those big heavy machines because it took some real effort to move them in or out of the building. You know it's a safety issue when a 18" saw has enough inertia after it's turned off to cut 2x4's 10 times!

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Cat-gut strings are made from kitten guts, stretched out to near breaking point and then hardened with grue saliva. As a result these give a feeling of Pain and anguish whenever played, and often end up playing themselves backwards as part of satanic rituals.

Typhoon Guitars
http://www.typhoon-guitars.com


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 27, 2013 1:43 pm 
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What about using bicycle brakes?

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Cat-gut strings are made from kitten guts, stretched out to near breaking point and then hardened with grue saliva. As a result these give a feeling of Pain and anguish whenever played, and often end up playing themselves backwards as part of satanic rituals.

Typhoon Guitars
http://www.typhoon-guitars.com


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 27, 2013 5:08 pm 
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Tai Fu wrote:
What about using bicycle brakes?


Hahah! I would like a picture of that!

Not to say it wouldnt work


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 27, 2013 5:52 pm 
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I like those wood inserts Filippo. I'm going to have to make some. My delta has a metal insert with the larger slot. I had a similar thing happen with a small piece getting sucked down into it..Mike

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 27, 2013 9:30 pm 
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Location: Taiwan
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If you are going to cut small pieces, cut a piece of plywood and leave it there, then cut your piece over it.

_________________
Cat-gut strings are made from kitten guts, stretched out to near breaking point and then hardened with grue saliva. As a result these give a feeling of Pain and anguish whenever played, and often end up playing themselves backwards as part of satanic rituals.

Typhoon Guitars
http://www.typhoon-guitars.com


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 27, 2013 10:30 pm 
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First name: John
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City: Newport
State: TN
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Country: USA
Focus: Repair
Status: Professional
Quote:
My saw doesn't have a foot brake and the saw literally takes a whole minute before it comes to a complete stop.

So does mine. Like I said before, this is something you only do one time for a particular blade type. After that, the tension setting should not change.
BTW, I did a similar mod to my saw, but it was on the screw that locks the upper blade guide. The star knob was too small...meaning I could not tighten it enough by hand to prevent loosening after I had run the saw for a while. I resorted to using a Crescent wrench on the 'ears' of the plastic knob. That eventually caused one of the ears to break off. I replaced the whole screw with one that had a longer lever.
Star knob similar to the one on my saw:
Image
The replacement type:
Image

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 28, 2013 8:20 am 
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First name: joseph
Last Name: sallis
City: newcastle-upon-tyne
State: tyne and wear
Zip/Postal Code: ne46xe
Country: UK
Focus: Build
Status: Amateur
If anyone is interested, Health and Safety at Work regulations in UK state that bandsaws (and most other machinery) must stop within 10 seconds.

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 28, 2013 6:20 pm 
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Joe Sallis wrote:
If anyone is interested, Health and Safety at Work regulations in UK state that bandsaws (and most other machinery) must stop within 10 seconds.


Not wanting to split hairs, but it's not Health & Safety regs it's PUWER regs. Just in case anyone did want to look this up.


~Nil carborundum illegitemi~


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