Official Luthiers Forum!

If all you're doing is building guitars and you're not running a cabinet shop, tablesaws are a luxury.

If you're running a cabinet shop, tablesaws are an essential tool!

_________________
Old growth, shmold growth!

I consider my tablesaw to be a required tool, but then again, I used to build furniture. I built my first few pieces of furniture with only hand tools so I know I can do without the stationary tools if I really had to. I believe it really has to do with how each person works. That said, I agree the bandsaw is #1 in the luthier shop but I would not want to to pick between my bandsaw and table saw

_________________
Steve Smith
"Music is what feelings sound like"

I'd happily give up my bandsaw in order to keep my table saw. It's easily the MOST used tool in my shop, where the bandsaw is likely the LEAST used...

So yes, table saw to rip braces. Get yee a few 7/14" Freud blades(in 24, 40 and 60 tooth versions) and be done with it. Yes, you can(and should) run 7/14" blades on a table saw....

The Freud 7 1/4" blades with a zero clearance insert are definitely the way to go!!

_________________
Steve Smith
"Music is what feelings sound like"

Before I started building guitars a bit more than 20 years ago, the table saw was my most used big tool. I still use it to slot fretboards and when I build big things. But, for most of my guitar making cuts, I use the band saw. I started with a used 12" Craftsman band saw. I replaced the bad bearings, got cool blocks for the blade guides, and learned to tune it up. I still have it and use it daily. I keep a fine blade in it for the small stuff and have a much bigger band saw with a much bigger blade for the big stuff. "The New Complete Guide to the Band Saw" by Mark Duginske is good. Get a new blade (or a few new blades--they do wear out) for your band saw and learn how to tune it up. Once you have it working correctly, then the choice of band saw over table saw to use comes down to your preferences. We're all different.

I have a little 10" Craftsman band saw, and it was OK when new, but not great. At a woodworking show here one Spring, I bought a Carter Stabilizer. Best $80 I've ever spent. Gets rid of all blade guides, and reduces blade changing to a few minutes instead of an ordeal. It also removes blade drift to almost non existent. I only use 1/4" blades but I can cut necks true and it's no longer hard to cut the curve at the heel with this thing. At the show they were cuttin reindeer out if a hunk of 2x4, so tight turns aren't an issue. Anyway, it turned an OK SAW into a great saw. It is a guide with a groove in the bearing. Really keeps the blade in line and steady.

_________________
Waddy

Photobucket Build Album Library

Sound Clips of most of my guitars

I have a 14" Jet Deluxe and use it for everything. One summer during undergrad I worked in the school's shop making thousands of cuts per day on the tablesaw, making these little puzzles for conferences the math dept. held. I'm more than comfortable with both, but don't have the space, budget, or compelling need for a nice tablesaw.

Whenever I cut braces, I just set the fence and clean on thickness sander. When I tapered a fretboard last week, I free-handed just outside the line and fine tuned with my #5, which literally took a minute per side (I did a selfy vid for Facebook).

A tablesaw would be infinitely more convenient for ripping ply down to size for jigs or whatever, but I haven't found myself wanting.

Bear in mind that I do this for recreation, making a guitar a year. I know your volume's a lot higher than that, so the added minutes I don't mind could be more of an issue for you. But when it comes to braces, I just make a batch and have them ready to go.

Table VS band saw isn't about time savings, it's about accuracy, and no band saw can leave as nice a cut surface, and as precise, as a -good- table saw and blade.

I use my 14" Rikon band saw with a 3-4 TPI 5/8" wide blade. It tracks just as good as a table saw when the blade is sharp and set up well. I cut it just a bit wider than final dimensions and sand to width on the thickness sander. I do the bottom (glue side) with a jack plane and either free hand or a jig to cut the correct radius. Top of the brace is left flat and shaped to final dimension after glued up with the usual small hand planes and chisels. It's interesting to see how everybody has different methods that work for them.

The more comfortable I get with planes, the more I think about ordering a bench dog and using it as a plane stop. Should be worlds faster than wheeling out the sander and letting it run.

The store I use offers ready cut bracing - should I use this considering I do not own electric saws? I was hoping to use hand saws. Does the bracing come in such a form that using hand saws is tiresome? does the bracing need to be cut out of a plank for example?

Doesn't anyone split the brace blank and plane to size?
It does generate lots of waste though.

_________________
-----
Sen CL Goh
http://senguitar.blogspot.com

I split them into a size that does about 3 or 4 main braces and then saw and sand them.

_________________
Old growth, shmold growth!

Good call. I've been planning to turn my shooting board into a bench hook, too. It slides all over the place.

I just use a band saw. I can cut a very straight line with a band saw, no need to set up a fence. Then one run through a planner and it's done. That or just 3 or 4 strokes with a smoothing plane. A table saw might be easier and a better tool for the job but I have not used one in 20 years of making guitars.

Filippo, i seem to remember you did a mod to your shooting board, some kind of holding device for the plates or something but can´t find the thread about it. can you help me finding it?


Thanks,
Miguel.

_________________
member of the guild of professional dilettantes

I really like that hold down. A shallow strip up front (maybe 3/16" or so) would be perfect for holding braces in place.

Is a Delta 14" Model # 28-203 worth a look?

There is a guy that has one for sale in my area on CL - WAY overpriced and he knows it. What would this saw be worth and is it worth looking at???

http://omaha.craigslist.org/tls/3963338417.html

_________________
P A U L B U R N E R
Burner Guitars

Thanks Todd. It is a closed cabinet model as shown in the photo on the ad.

I appreciate your input on the Rikon 10-345.

_________________
P A U L B U R N E R
Burner Guitars

CL guy just lowered his price to $500. Is it a closed base model with a 1HP motor.

Just an FYI - not that I'm running out to buy it.

_________________
P A U L B U R N E R
Burner Guitars

Thanks Filippo!

_________________
member of the guild of professional dilettantes

Would this one be worth a look? I'm thinking he is a bit high on the price:
http://omaha.craigslist.org/tls/3968279317.html

I would be replacing a newer vintage Craftsman 12".

_________________
P A U L B U R N E R
Burner Guitars