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PostPosted: Tue Aug 21, 2012 11:14 am 
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First name: joseph
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It looks amazing.
All it needs now are some 6mm fret dots ontop.

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 21, 2012 6:09 pm 
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Barry, I know exactly what you are saying. And it needs to be better. The surface of the inlay was actually finish sanded, although to 400 grit. The roughness is I think because I glue in my frets and I haven't gotten all the residue off yet. And I did tape before I fretted. Getting a really clean fretboard, inlay or no, is something I've always struggled with. I always end up cleaning up with progressively finer micro mesh no matter how careful I am or carefully I tape.

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 21, 2012 6:17 pm 
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Joe Sallis wrote:
It looks amazing.
All it needs now are some 6mm fret dots ontop.


OUCH! Why didn't I think of that before?

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 22, 2012 12:40 pm 
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Actually, I like the fact that all the design elements look very much like an Asian print. I think it maintains a stylistic unity throughout the inlay that is very pleasing to me. I was going to comment on it before I got to your post that explains your source of inspiration.


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 22, 2012 12:46 pm 
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Another "Wow!" here. Amazing work Kevin! [:Y:]


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 22, 2012 1:26 pm 
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Glue residue is easily removed with a damp rag. No need to sand. And if you start sanding between frets, you will not end up with an even looking sheen.


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 22, 2012 3:43 pm 
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Another well done from me Kevin ... can almost hear Grit whispering in your ear. Could you list some of the materials you used?
I'm with Barry on taking the fingerboard finish as far as you can before fretting... I typically go up to 2000 & then buff on a dedicated ebony wheel. (I put glue in the slots with a tiny syringe, so there's no cleanup if you're carefull)


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 22, 2012 6:46 pm 
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I think maybe I'm using too much glue, since there is always a bit left even after wiping with a wet rag. Next one I will definitely polish the inlaid board all the way before fretting.

The material is as follows:

Geese: White MOP
Mountains: Recon stone (Honey Jasper, Obsidian, and Banded Ivory) and Black MOP
Lake: Medium Lapis (w. pyrite)
Tiger: White MOP, Ebony, Bone, and Yellow Spiney, Medium Coral.
Cliff: Honey Jasper, Black MOP, and Paua.

For the head stock, imagine continuing your gaze upward into the nightsky witha full moon (white MOP) reflecting on stringy clouds (black MOP). Not as complex as below, and lots of plane ebony as the background. Haven't started cutting this yet.

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 23, 2012 7:30 am 
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Thanks Kevin. Did Grit happen to give you recommended sources??

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 23, 2012 12:46 pm 
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Masecraft for recon stone and and Duke of Pearl for shell blanks and laminated shell.

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 23, 2012 1:13 pm 
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Beautiful work!!!

I don't see anything that needs to be done different or better.

Once you clear all the glue and final sand up close to the frets, and then buff the fretboard, all your concerns about the finish will vanish.

Well done [:Y:] [:Y:] [:Y:]

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 23, 2012 5:17 pm 
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How did I miss this thread?

Nice work there Kevin. Now quit pulling these guys legs, your inlay skills were above average before you went and hung out with Grit.

Are you bringing this to the Rockford show in September so we can drool on it in person?

Steve


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 23, 2012 7:05 pm 
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What Rockford show in September?

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 23, 2012 8:55 pm 
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E-mail on the way.


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 24, 2012 1:07 am 
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Great job Kevin. I'm interested to know how long this piece took you?

Thanks,

Shane


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 24, 2012 7:47 am 
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I don't track the hours spent on any project, but I spent a lot of time on google images looking at tiger photos, drawing, wood block prints before coming up with a design idea. Then many hours doing tracings before settling on a basic design. That happened in June. I spent about a month cutting the pieces and inlaying them. But for me the design process is the hardest.

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 24, 2012 1:20 pm 
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Titebond hide glue rather than other glue because it is easy to clean up with a wet rag even if it has dried a bit. I glue because I take the tangs off almost completely. I do that because the thinner uke fretboards (about .017 or .018 inch thick) tend to curl a bit if you don't.

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