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John - thanks for sharing your test results. Very interesting! Was the glue you used fresh?

I ordered it May 23...the day I started this thread, actually. What's really surprising is these are glue line failures on SPRUCE, and some of them are absolutely clean without even a hint of wood failure. The joints are tight. The one from this morning on the top cutoff really shocked me. I thought for sure that it broke to the left or right of the joint because it was so clean, but nope....just running my fingernail down the break confirmed that it was rock hard (i.e. it was the glue line) and a clean failure.

I think I'm going to keep building with this top...I don't think it's going to fall apart. I'm just building it for myself, anyway, and as a loaner/demonstrator so if a brace pops off or something falls apart one day, I don't really care. I'll just pop off the neck and worry about it then.

Never used LMI glue - however Ive been using LV woodworking glue cause believe it or not I had trouble finding Titebond 1 around here - as far as the LV stuff I dont know if this is a good idea or not, however it has seemed OK so far - Anyone have experiences with the LV stuff - good or bad?
Cheers
Charliewood

Is it the 202GF, Charlie?

Alex

_________________
"Indecision is the key to flexibility" .... Bumper sticker

Every indication I have is that the LMI product is a very basic PVA white glue apparently free of biocides (this explains their description of its smell... Although it is actually unlikely performance would be harmed when it begins to spoil.) I never had an opportunity to test it while working at Franklin, so I unfortunately have no knowledge of its actual empirical performance or formulation. If anyone wants to call Franklin's technical service department and submit a sample of LMI glue for analysis and testing, they should be willing to run strength and chemical analysis... Or at least that's how things were when I worked there.

I recommend Fish glue for every "structural" circumstance where hide glue can't be used because of its short open time. For thin veneers and fretboards, I recommend epoxy. I use Titebond 1 for non-structural joints (fretboard binding, etc...) where I like the convenience of a decent open time but not the long clamping time of the Fish glue. And I use super glue for binding.

I like LMI's white glue but feel that fish glue and hide glue are better alternatives. Otherwise, Titebond seems to be a bit more "reliable" in my opinion.