Official Luthiers Forum!

Take a thin sheet of paper, and coat each one in epoxy, lacquer, shellac. That shoud answer the question.

Mike

I 've heard that system3 had an amber tint to it so i have never used it. The zpoxy i've used is totally clear.

Another option for pore filling rosettes is to apply CA after a thin coat of finish. I use Bob Smith Industries Gold medium viscosity odorless CA. It will stick just fine to sanded waterborne, but you can't do the same with epoxy. I let it cure for a few days before leveling and continuing with my finish, though I don't usually use a waterborne. I don't have a problem with contaminating the top with my pore fill with this method.

_________________
Ken Franklin
clumsy yet persistent
https://www.kenfranklinukulele.com

Thanks Filippo. I'll be doing it without laminating as well. I just recall Harry Fleischman's article in GAL where he let the beauty of the curly redwood blind him and ended up having to retop his harp guitar. I've always had a bit of a devil may care attitude. the guitar is for me, so I'm not worried. Anyway, verging on derailing this thread from the OP question.

[quote="Todd Stock"]Sure you are using the finishing resin? Z-Poxy Finishing Resin has a hardener that (like West 205 & 206) darkens over time from medium amber to dark amber...the lightest I've ever seen is a very fresh batch that was still medium amber.



The System 3 standard resins and T-88 both have straw colored hardeners that darken to a deep amber over time - especially if stored in metal containers. System 3 Clearcoat finishing resin is essentially crystal clear (although very, very picky about mixing) - it's a good filler. Finally, West has 207 hardener that is supposed to be clear, but still darkens to a straw or amber pretty quickly.





I like the slight amber color of Z-poxy on most woods - it warms up rock maple enough to avoid having to put some color in the toner, and adds a lot of depth to ash, oak, Yes, I don't use system three a don't know anything about it. I just know i don't have any problem with the amber color on a top next to the rosette when i pore fill with it.

Thank you to everyone who reply'd. I think I will try to avoid using the epoxy on the top as much as possible. If I do, I will try to thin it down with alcohol like was suggested.

Thanks again
-James

And consider using a clear epoxy for that.

Mike

How do you all apply it? With a stiff card or such a thing? Wipe across or with the grain?

Todd Stock has a good tutorial in the vids and tutorials section and uses a small squeegee. The only thing I would caution is being careful on the first coat dependent on the type of squeegee as it can leave black marks on the bare wood. DAMHIKT! It does work a lot better than the cards I used to use however.

I bought a box of yellow ones from a auto supply store. Probably never have to buy them again. Nice, thick, tapered, and easy to clean. Rounded corners to keep from marring the wood.

On The system three bottle it says the mix ratio is 100:44 by weight. Am I figuring correctly saying that if I mix one gram of hardener I would Use 2.27 grams of Resin. Also is this the best Ratio?

Well, with that kind of endoresment I will most certainly be getting some. Cause if there is one thing I hate doing , its messing with epoxy. Thanks Todd.

Mike