Official Luthiers Forum!

Thank you, I am finishing my first build and I am using a spray Lacquer. I Didn’t use a filler of any type so I am at my tenth coat and it still has pours. I thought I was doing something wrong, now I see I have about 10 more coats to go and a 3-6 week cure time. I have not heard of any of the products you are using. I hope I do not stir up a good laugh but I am using Minwax Clear spray can Lacquer, Direct from the Home Depot. I have used 4 cans @ $7.39 a can. Is it feasible to switch to a better product now or am I locked in to what I started with? I do not know what will bond to each other without making a finish that never dries or turns to crackle etc.

Joe

I like Minwax Poly Oil.

I used to make a Poly / Linseed oil blend myself, but this is so much easier and just as durable.

Check out Ken Parkers Archtops. He uses an epoxy sealer, 1 coat, then applies 3 coats of oil based finish. Beautiful finishes and archtops.

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No one appreciates the very special genius of your conversation as the dog does.
Christopher Morley

While I hate that wrapped in plastic look , I think the appearance of a good finish in French Polish or Lacquer is appealing to my eye . I can only speak of my experience , but I sell my guitars I can often get $5000 for gloss the best I did in satin is $2500 . It is what the market wants and expects .
If you don't like filling , there are more finish friendly woods you can try . Still this is all part of guitar building. I know in my early days I think I tried anything and everything . Even joint compound as a filler . There are many products out there that make this easy but it is all about your process.
If you are not in it for a market , use the satin but if you want to sell your product , you will learn quick the laws of supply and demand . Finish is all about the prep .

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John Hall
blues creek guitars
Authorized CF Martin Repair
Co President of ASIA
You Don't know what you don't know until you know it

I tried for awhile to get a finish that didn't look pore-filled, or finished either. I gave up.

The hard part for me is not the pore filling, it's sanding back without undoing my work or exposing additional pores. I'm getting better at it... slowly.

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George :-)

I find scraping with a razor blade is more precise. After starting with straight, square furniture, where you couldn't beat a freshly planed surface, I'm still getting used to how much sand paper is used in guitar building.

Not with a thin oil finish, at least that hasn't been my experience and over the years I've done a lot of testing on finishes. I think you are referring to a finish that has deliberate matting agents added. I'm not.

+1 on using a scraper after filling. Sand paper seems to grab it and pull it out of the holes.

FWIW I like the look both ways filled or not but I agree with as was mentioned customers like that filled mirror look.

Personally I don't like toxic chemicals in my shop and I push that philosophy to my customers and they tend to agree.