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PostPosted: Tue Sep 20, 2011 10:13 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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banjopicks wrote:
I've always heard that the 14" saws can't handle the tension of a 3/4" blade.


Hutch, I'm not sure about all 14" saws, but mine (Buffalo [Delta clone] with riser block) cannot. I was surprised to find that I can resaw much better with a 1/2 blade.


As to the rest of this thread, I should probably keep my mouth shut but. . . I didn't read much of the Laguna thread because it didn't really apply to my saw; I don't know what happened over there to start all this, but something tells me this is not about bandsaw blades or sponsors at all. It's a real shame too, now I feel afraid to ask about certain blades for fear of causing more trouble (I'm sure other readers do too). The great thing about fora like this is the exchange of experiences. It is up to the reader to make up his or her mind about how to interpret the information.

Bryan

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 20, 2011 10:15 am 
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Koa
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Which style TW blade? VPC seems like the right choice but I don't really know.

I'm a big fan of the Timberwolf blades. I typically stock a 3/8" blade for general purpose work and a 1/2" 3 to 4 tpi blade for re-saw.

Actually, I currently have a 3/4" blade for re-saw but I've found that the 1/2" actually works better. I know that surface area is not supposed to impact friction but I don't think the same mechanism is going on when resawing wood. It seems to me that the wider blades create more drag which is a bigger factor on low power re-saws (i.e. <3hp). When it wears out, I'll be returning to a 1/2" blade.

I've found that if you take your time getting the drift to about zero, the 1/2" plows through the wood more easily than the 3/4", at least on little saws with no loss in cut quality.

As to the riser block - my recommendation would be to skip it. I had a Jet knockoff of the Delta and while I was able to resaw up to 8", it took a lot of time and effort to get things lined up and still was very difficult. I've since switched to the Rikon 14" and it's well up to the task of re-sawing, at least at the volumes I'm doing. If I was resawing a lot, I'd go for an 18" 3hp or more saw.[/quote]

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 20, 2011 10:49 am 
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Koa
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That's the same saw I have. I knew that it could accept a 3/4" blade but I didn't really beleive it could handle it. I guess you are having good luck using 3/4" blades with a riser block? I should get a riser if that's the case. Where did you get yours? I'll do a search.

Filippo Morelli wrote:
Not all 14" saws are the same. For example the Rikon 14" 10-325 model I used to was spec'd for 1/8" to 3/4" blades from the manufacturer. I ran a 3/4" with good luck. Sooooo .... Mike's blade recommendations on 3/4" blades may work just fine for your specific 14" bandsaw - check the product specification sheet for your saw. I suspect this is largely a function of column strength and tensioning system, than wheel size (though I could be wrong on that!)

Filippo

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 20, 2011 10:57 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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I think you are right Fillipo, that is why I listed my saw type. I am sure it is a tension problem probably from flex in the column.

I can't complain about my piece of junk buffalo though. I got it from craigslist for $40 and got a bunch of free jatoba with it. Another $50 for a riser kit and I am able to resaw (albeit slowly) backs in woods like black walnut. I haven't had the need to try harder stuff, but I bet with a struggle, I can do it.

Hutch, I bought the sample pack of KerfMaster blades for not too much money but I can't remember which one I ended up liking the best. My shop is out of commission right now so I can't get to where I wrote down which one I liked.

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 20, 2011 11:27 am 
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The general consensus I have seen in the past agrees with most folks' experience here - that best results are had with a 1/2" 3-4TPI blade for "most" 14" band saws. Particularly the Chinese ones like this HF that are known for being underpowered and especially with a riser block added. I have always heard that they just won't tension a 3/4" blade, although I know some who have upgraded the tension springs and had better results. This leaves the motor as the next limiting factor, but a cheap band saw, I'm afraid, could quickly become a real money pit. I will probably just invest toward a bigger saw before I do that.

Thanks for the good input. The 3-4 TPI Timberwolves are the favorites for resawing I have seen touted on other woodworking forums in the past. I may give Jim's blades a try, too.

So, we have kinda hung out on the resawing topic, it seems. Those of you with this setup, do you tend to leave the blade on for other tasks or do you swap out to a smaller blade?

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 20, 2011 6:24 pm 
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Cocobolo
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Some interesting comments above...

On an old made-in-america 14" delta 220v/2hp

for general purpose use, I prefer 3/8 x 4 Lenox flex-back bands -cheap, reliable, and decent life with a good cut quality.

For resaw without the riser, I am able to tension and get good performance from 3/4" thin-kerf carbon bands like the Lenox Kerfmaster.
With the riser installed, I have to back off to a 5/8" band to get good performance. My main resaw blade is a 5/8 x 3/4 tpi Kerfmaster

I have been dissapointed with the Suffolk blades in the past and no longer use them.

Having said that, It is clear that my saw is much of more substantal construction than the current models. I looked at one of the newer Deltas last time I was at Woodcraft and I was amazed how thin and flimsy the castings appeared.

-jd


Last edited by windsurfer on Tue Sep 20, 2011 9:55 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 20, 2011 9:47 pm 
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Koa
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I have the Grizzly GO555 with an uninstalled riser kit; like the way it works with the Timberwolf 3/4, if I put in the riser will switch to
a 1/2 blade. Sure is easier than using a backsaw with its spine removed...

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