Official Luthiers Forum!

those sets look great to me. i wish i could get some like those for that price!

When I was up there in March, a lot of the sets had mineral deposits on them. How do you get rid of the mineral deposits? I thought that I heard that you needed to use an acid, but don't remember which one.

Just received the wood from Martin. I ended up paying a little more for the sides than was quoted. $26 vs $16. When I called and spoke to Gail she told me the $16 dollar ones had cracks and wind shake. Whatever that is. Anyway, at $58 a set, I think I did alright but I hope the mineral deposits go away with finish. I tested with a damp rag and they seemed to almost dissapear. Good enough for my first 2 anyway. Here's some pics.

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Hutch

Get the heck off the couch and go build a guitar!!!!

My experiences with GMC are very much dependent on the timing. I have gotten great deals, especially when I have picked out the wood in person.

The whitish mineral deposits in the pores are calcium carbonate (lime). They always look the worst after the wood is thickness sanded, because the process tends to smear the material on top of the surface. Hand sanding or scraping usually improves the look greatly.
In general, most of the mineral deposits on the sides disappear during the bending process. On the back, using C-L-R can get most or all of them. I have used an X-Acto knife to pick them out of the pores....as long as there aren't too many of them. A dark pigmented filler also tends to cover most of them.

In the past, the kits I have seen are first grade parts, but I suppose that depends on supply and demand. What I do know is that Martin rejects are often as good or better than first grade from other suppliers.

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John

What I was told by Gail when I was asking about their kits was that yes, the wood was rejected by the factory. They had detected something that made it unsuitable for a guitar costing thousands of dollars and bearing the Martin name. It is usually an aesthetic issue, like grain, stain, etc. Sometimes it is a knot that may be stable, and it may not. But why take the chance on setting your dealer up for a hassle? Once it is "rejected" it is sent to GMC. They sort through the wood and use the best sets to make up the kits, and the rest is available for sale independently. Perfect for starting out. Perfect for people who don't have a particular brand associated with a particular appearance. Supply is variable depending on what the factory is working with and how many other people are buying.

I note on the Allied web site that for sets with mineral deposits, "glacial acetic acid" is recommended. I don't know how readily available it is, or how effectively it removes the deposits, but thought I'd post the information anyway - do with it what you will.

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Cheers
Pete

Thanks, John and Pete. If C-L-R doesn't work I will try the glacial acetic acid. If neither work, I'll still be fine with what I have. Just looking forward to making some good sounding and playing guitars. I'm pretty confident of making a good player but the whole tone thing should be very interesting.

Can't wait to get started but I'm going for hand surgery this morning and I'm told it will be about 3 weeks before I can use my hand again. Stupid Vikings somehow gave me Dupuytren's contracture according to my doctor.

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Hutch

Get the heck off the couch and go build a guitar!!!!

Hope it goes well Hutch. I suffer from the same condition and I'm overdue for a second round of surgery. If nothing else, it at least provides a ready excuse for my poor playing ability.

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Cheers
Pete