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You mean this one? http://www.luthiersforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10101&t=29208

Hi Folks,
Okay, back online...As far as which formula I've used I can't say. I just checked and my last 6 builds have been with UBeaut so that translates to roughly a year a half and I'm into my second bottle and I don't see any difference. I did experiment with it before I used it on an instrument and, as I stated previously, it doesn't behave quite the same as plain old shellac. I found that if you use additional alcohol on the pad the finish takes too long to build resulting in far too many coats with little success. I also found that if I used any more than a dab(there's a technical term for you) of oil the finish can get cloudy and doesn't spirit off as easily as in normal French Polish. In addition, when using UBeaut I use it for the wash coat as well. I know some builders prefer to use plain shellac for the wash coat but I prefer not to mix the two. I can't honestly say if it makes a difference one way or the other but that's what I do and it works.
As far as its durability in different climates I can only attest to what we get here in central VA. I'm in the Piedmont plateau region and it's hot and humid in the summer and cold and dry in the winter. I haven't seen any changes in the finish up to this point nor have I received any complaints from anyone that has one of the guitars. One other note, UBeaut is a much clearer finish than super blond shellac. My observation, up to this point, is it doesn't have a tendency to "amber" much at all. I know some traditional builders like the aging effect of shellac but my preference is toward clear. Again, hope this helps.

Was the original formula ever even sold in the US? If it was I didn't know. There was some time before anyone carried it. Other of the products for turning were carried, but not the Hard Shellac.

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Waddy

Photobucket Build Album Library

Sound Clips of most of my guitars

I've used it on about 3 instruments, and have not seen the crazing. But I really believe it is technique. I have a banjola that was built by Edward Dick, and I gave him some of the original ubeaut forumla to use on it, and I think he sprayed it straight out of the bottle. This banjola does have the crazing as described. So he probably applied too much at a time.

When I applied mine, I cut it with about 1/2 with Everclear. I would use Robbie's FP method to apply. I never used oil AT ALL. I used a very light 1lb cut to do the seal coat and the whole instrument. I only did 2 sessions a day in about 35% humidity. I also only used straight strokes the whole time. Once finished, I used 3600 micromesh to sand, then plastic polish to finish it off after waiting about 2 weeks to harden. I've had my uke for about 2 years, and it is still perfectly shiny, and the guitar is still perfect after 1 year. I used the updated formula on the guitar. So I say revisit your technique. It is not the product.

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Tracy
http://www.luthiersuppliers.com

Waddy,
There was a purchase by Penn State about 3 years ago where you could buy the original formula. That is where I got mine. They quit carrying it after they ran out. Now the only place to get ubeaut is through LMI.

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Tracy
http://www.luthiersuppliers.com

I think this stuff has made me sick from smelling it.

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