Official Luthiers Forum!

It's a tiny piece of wood,
that doesn't weigh much,
and the string balls are pulling it up anyway,
so?

It looks like you could easily remove the bridge and then heat up your plate area to remove it too, since there is no finish yet to worry about, Then cut a new plate to fit where it should and glue it in. The tricky part is of course fitting your hand into what looks to me like a small diameter sound hole. If it were me and I couldn't do this I'd widen the hole. I like them bigger anyhow. It shouldn't be any harder than repairing a brace really. My two cents.

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"Preoccupation with an effect gives it power and enhances the error"
from "Your Owner's Manual" by Burt Hotchkiss.

pulling a plate is not that difficult. There are 2 ways to do this. One is to take a wet cello sponge that is cut in the shape of the plate , lay it on the plate and let set for 24 hrs and check. Sometimes it takes 2 days to soak through the maple . The plate slips off nicely. The other method is to get a plate heat blanket and apply heat . Set it for about 250 degree and in 10 minutes it should be off. You clean off the glue and make a new one .
Many ways to do this . Pick the way you would like to go about it . I find artist pallet knives a good took for working under the plates.

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John Hall
blues creek guitars
Authorized CF Martin Repair
Co President of ASIA
You Don't know what you don't know until you know it

I'd be worried that enough heat to remove the bridge and plate (if heating from the top which may be an incorrect assumption on my part) would separate the top seam and possibly the bracing...I'm leaning in Howard's direction even though I'm clueless about the lignum v...

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http://www.presnallguitars.com

Hard to glue. More overkill.

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Howard Klepper
http://www.klepperguitars.com

When all else fails, clean the shop.

FWIW, my 1955 Gibson has a bridgeplate extension.

I was just going to mention that. Loads of Gibson have bridge plates placed incorrectly, or from design changes mid production.