Official Luthiers Forum!

I use TB for all fingerboards except coco .. then its LV G2. My necks all have the FB glued on when the neck is still quite a rectangular block, so I dont get any warping. Plus I leave it clamped up for about 12 hours.

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Tony Karol
www.karol-guitars.com
"let my passion .. fulfill yours"

I glue my necks together using my granite plate. after 112 guitar and I don't know how many necks , I never had one warp. I have passed up necks that I feared would warp with too much angled grain. Clamping with a strongboard or anything that holds thing true is just good technique and we should all do it.

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John Hall
blues creek guitars
Authorized CF Martin Repair
Co President of ASIA
You Don't know what you don't know until you know it

I usually use HHG for fretboards (Titebond works very well too). As Tony and John pointed out, the longer it stays clamped with a heavy straight caul, the better (overnight for me). I never had a warped neck, or a backbow.
When using CF bars dadoed in fretboard and neck stock I use polyurethane glue (Gorilla glue). I don't expect to disassemble those…

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Laurent Brondel
West Paris, Maine - USA
http://www.laurentbrondel.com/

I will freely admit to a bias here against using waterborne adhesives to adhere FB to neck. I don't usually like to make decisions based on a sample of one ...but...My first neck warped having used HHG to adhere the FB in spite of hard clamping to my heavy bench for 24+ hours. Since that time, I have 100% successfully used epoxy and will probably continue to do so.

I currently use 20 minute or 30 minute Bob Smith Epoxy. I have had problems with inconsistent curing using the hardware store brands...probably due to freshness issues. Since changing to a quality epoxy I have never had a cure problem as evidenced by the glass hard remainder left in the the mixing cup. A good tip...don't unclamp the neck until the mixing cup remainder becomes glass hardened.

One other thing I've always done with epoxy mixing...I carefully weigh out each component (usually 3-5 grams) on my triple beam balance and then mix in a cup for 3 minutes...really, 3 minutes by the clock. I've also used 5 ml glass syringes to measure out but I ended up having to clean out syringes with acetone and abandoned that method. If nothing else, it insures consistency and makes me feel like a lab rat again. Old habits never die...even the good ones!

One negative is the separation process. While it does in fact release with heat, it is more difficult than Titebond or other glues to clean off the surfaces.

"It's always something"...Roseanne Roseanadana

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JJ
Napa, CA
http://www.DonohueGuitars.com

West for me, too. I've done several and they've been perfect each time.

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Eagles may soar, but weasels don't get sucked into jet engines.

I switched to Epoxy from LMI white 5 or 6 guitars ago after reading Rick Turner's feelings on the subject. I must admit that even with clamping to a rigid metal caul for 24-36 hrs I would usually get a tiny hump in the middle of the fretboard. Not much, and easily leveled, but with the epoxy it's gone. I have not decided yet which way to go for the long haul. I recently removed a dovetail Alverez neck that was glued with epoxy and it was a !!@$$ mess to clean up. I may go back to LMI or Tightbond. I've been using medium or gel superglue for the carbon bars. Anyone else doing that?

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It's not what you don't know that hurts you, it's what you do know that's wrong.

So I calculated the amount of water in the glue of an average fingerboard-to-neck joint. It's huge! Assuming that the glue is 75% water and the joint averages .005" (both pretty generous, I admit), there is almost .03 fluid ounces of water in there! That's over a milliliter!

No wonder all those necks warp!