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Another for the Oneida products and you definitely don't want to have to buy it more than once. Happy decision making

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Steve Smith
"Music is what feelings sound like"

I'll fourth the recommedation for the Oneida cyclone.

when I get my new shop built, that will be my first purchase.

I currently have a very modified 1.5 hp delta that gets rolled around. much better than my Fein shop vac, but still not enough suck to keep the air (and my lungs) clear

-jd

Hesh

This is what I have: http://busybeetools.ca/cgi-bin/picture10?NTITEM=CT030
You could drive up to London and pick one up for 425 Canadian, then drive around the corner to Lee Valley for some serious tool porn.

Bob

I am not sure if it works the same way with 110v power, but dust collectors sort of add power to a circuit. Once the impeller is going like a fly wheel with no drag, other tools are easier to start. Other then really working a planer or jointer, most tools don't bog the dust collector at all. You should not have problem with power as long as there is enough juice to start the dust collector first.

I have a 3 phase rotary inverter which is not quite enough to start my big old shaper, but when I turn the collector on first it starts easily. Same thing with my solid state inverter, works better with the dc on.

I am sure one more knowledgeable with juice can explain this better and how it works with different power.
Rob

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Thanks everyone!

I had read about the Oneida in your previous post in another recent thread Todd and I certainly paid attention to what you are saying. Unfortunately my electrical service to my home is maxed out per my electrician and I can't add anything 220 now unless I drop some bucks for new supply boxes... and his time which is pretty cheap as he prefers liquid remuneration.... but not while working.... Also the Oneida is over budget for me.

But hey a 1.5HP 1,000+ CFM directly connected to my stuff is a huge improvement over the Festool vac so I am happy about that.

WC has a big sale starting today and for 2 days so I am headed to Toledo to pick up the hose and fittings that Filippo suggested and take advantage of the sale. I can pick-up my General DC (it's in stock) Monday but not before if I want 15% off and I most certainly do.

Thanks again everyone!

It depends on your work flow, but I bet you may want to install hoses and blast gates pretty quickly. After a few weeks of plugging/unplugging the DC to various machines, it really made obvious that I often cut one piece on the table saw, then thickness it on the drum sander, maybe sand the edges on the belt sander etc. I thought I was more "batch" oriented, but I am not.

EDIT: there no real need for 220v, although it's nice for motors over 1HP, DC or not. But having two circuits to run machines and DC separately is much better, especially if you remote control the DC and start everything together.

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Laurent Brondel
West Paris, Maine - USA
http://www.laurentbrondel.com/

Hesh, aren't you near some closing auto research facilities? Have you inquired on setting up shop in one of the unused wind tunnels?

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Chris Oliver
Infinity Luthiers
...in the shop.

live every minute...

certainly much more flow than your festool, but don't get fooled into believing 1000+ CFM

that rating is likely with no hoses or filters...

-jd

certainly much more flow than your festool, but don't get fooled into believing 1000+ CFM

that rating is likely with no hoses or filters...

-jd[/quote

Yeah I know JD my friend. I used to be in the software business and I know all too well about claims made in the demo.....

or... well never mind Lance will get mad at me.....

Chris yeah lots of now vacant automotive manufacturing facilities in these parts. It's pretty sad and reminds me of Pennsylvania in the 80's after the US steel industry crashed....

Laurent the cool thing about my shop is that all of my larger power tools are on one long wall with a dedicated 20A circuit. It would be pretty easy to just plumb that wall for DC with one straight pipe and locate the DC in the saw room on the other side of this wall. The saw room has it's own dedicated 20A circuit so what you described I can easily do.

Thanks Todd - great info.

So my read of this is that the author rates the performance of the JDS only fair which says to me that it's likely that any other units like the JDS, and they all seem very much the same, with the same HP are only going to rate fair too. Since I don't subscribe to FWW (yet...) I'm wondering if they rated the General too and if my hunch, that they all rate only fair, is accurate?

The other thing that I am learning from this Todd is that perhaps if this is the kind of machine that I have not plumbing it and instead using a 6" hose from the DC to the tool only reducing to 4" at the tool is a better bet than having hard plumbing on my wall with multiple blast gates. Would you agree?

Many thanks.

1.5 HP is not big enough to effectively hard plumb with blast gates and multiple machines.

Much better to roll that size collector to the tools and use as short as possible 6" flex line. reduce to 4" at the tool if necessary.

Also some tools with small dust collector fittings and very confined space inside and will restrict airflow, so if you are getting good pull to the collector, you may need to increase the size of the openings in the tool to avoid choking the flow.

Easy way to monitor airflow is to get something that allows you to monitor current draw of the collector motor If you are moving lots of air, the motor will pull lots of current. If you connect to a tool and the current pull of you collector drops in half, it means you have severely restricted the airflow.

-jd

Hesh, connecting directly from the collector to whatever machine you're using, I would keep at 4", & not increase to 6". By increasing, you may increase volume, but at a loss of velocity. At such a short distance, the volume increase wouldn't be a great help, but a velocity loss would certainly hurt performance. At 5ft (the normal hose run for direct connect), static loss is negligible. Just my $.02....don

Thanks for your help everyone - much appreciated!

I picked up my DC this morning and would have had it here yesterday but it wouldn't fit in or on my Honda.....

So with the help of a neighbor's truck, again.... I picked it up and assembled it in my shop.

Assembly is not difficult and things fit, kind of...., but this is clearly not something that was made with the finest engineering... The method for attaching the canister using self-stick foam gaskets leaves a lot to be desired.

Anyway it works and in the next several days depending on my schedule in the Ann Arbor shop and I will give it a run with my thickness sander.

I'll also mention that this thing is BIG - it's bigger than I thought and as such I think I am going to wheel it around and not keep it in my shop.

Take a look.



My last question is this: I want to take Todd's advice to the letter regarding the 5" hose but when I asked the guys at Woodcraft about how to replace the "Y" that comes on the machine with something that either goes to two 5" or one 5" and they were clueless as to where I could get something that will fit this machine.

Also the Y leaks badly around it - use foam tape to plug it up?

Any ideas?

Thanks

-

Gotta wonder when a guy names a dust collector after a girl

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Steve Smith
"Music is what feelings sound like"

At least I am consistent....



Thanks Todd and I am calling Oneida tomorrow as you suggested!

My guess is it is named after Ms. Lewinski - correct Hesh???

I just saw this today on the Oneida website for Festool Vacs:
http://store.oneida-air.com/dust-deputy-festool.aspx

Wondering what folks think of this? I have a festool CT-22 and am thinking maybe this makes sense. I just wonder what makes this better than the basic Dust Deputy?

Thanks!

Glenn

Glenn it looks to me like Oneida has developed a dust deputy for the Festool that fits the vac on top so that no shop-made cart is required. It's pretty cool as a turn-key solution and should greatly extend bag life and keep the vac's performance higher longer. If I didn't have Monica II I might have gone this route..... but still the Festools CFM is what it is regardless.

I'm a real believer in the Dust Deputy. Here is my DD drum after several months of catching sanding dust and band saw dust. Remember, I have only completed 3 guitars, with #'s 4 & 5 on the bench, so I'm not a high volume dust producer. I use planes and scrapers a lot, too, so minimal sanding and such. I do use it to suck up dust and chips from the floor, sometime, too. Anyway, here's the DD drum.

And this is what was in the Shop Vac drum. I will say that the filter was packed, but suction was still surprisingly good. I use one of the Clean Stream GoreTex, HEPA type filters.

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Waddy

Photobucket Build Album Library

Sound Clips of most of my guitars

Um.... Waddy my friend your pics are raising my blood pressure..... I hate dirt!!!!

I have a similar system Hesh .. 2 hp (or so it says), 1100 or something CFM, and I converted the top bag to the canister about a year ago .. great idea. However, i also have a shop built separator box before the impellor (my motor/impellor now sits directly on top of the separator, no tubing) and this makes a huge difference .. you want to keep as much stuff out of the canister as possible .. the finer the filtering, the faster it clogs if everything is allowed to reach it. I use the canister rake (the handle that rotates a flapper inside to knock the dust off the pleats) every couple times I use the collector to get optimum suction. The addition ofhte separator keeps about 95% of the dust out of the canister and drop bag (BTW .. line the drop bag with a large green garbage bag, no need to have to dump that one out ...)

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Tony Karol
www.karol-guitars.com
"let my passion .. fulfill yours"

Yeah I think that you are right now that I have pushed the thing around back and forth a few times and it sucks.....

All my larger tools that I would use my DC on are on one wall with a 20A dedicated circuit. These tools include the Rikon 14" BS, Performax 10-20, and Rikon 48" belt sander. On the other side of this wall is the table saw room with plenty of room for the DC, in fact it lives there now. That room has a dedicated 20A circuit too.

So what if... I leave the DC in the saw room and plumb it through the wall and then run a pipe along the wall with all of my larger tools and install drop-downs with gates (3 of them for the tools) to each of the tools. Is this too much plumbing for this DC. Also would you connect the DC to a 4,5, or 6" pass through provided that all of these exist to go through the wall?

Last question for now if I may please and again I greatly appreciate the help here is should the pipe along the tool wall have the DC connect at one end or is in the middle OK for performance?

Many thanks