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PostPosted: Tue Nov 03, 2009 3:57 pm 
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Al, I thought that about 11 degrees of break angle was the minimum necessary to hold the strings. I could be wrong but I thought you actually posted that number. I'm not trying to be picky, but I'm actually going to be working on some ideas around this.

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 03, 2009 4:20 pm 
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Thanks Al!

Alan Carruth wrote:

"...what is the best way to brace or not brace the guitar top, once the soundboard bracing no longer needs to be structural? "

Let's say you've got 200 pounds of string tension (yeah, that's high, but it's just a number to use). Spruce is rated for useful loads in the range of 2000-3000 psi in direct tension or compression in aircraft use, so that implies a generous safety margin. If your top is .100" thick, and 15" wide, that gives it a cross sectional area of .15 square inches, which should be good for a load of at least 300 pounds in pure compression.

In order to take that load in pure compression the top would have to be dead flat, and remain so. The problem is that a thin plate like that is going to buckle under far less load than it can theoretically take in straight compression. When we took shoring classes in the Navy (bracing battle damaged sections of the hull) the rule of thumb we were given is that a member in compression could be no longer in free span than 12 times it's smallest dimension: a 2x4 that was really 2" thick could only be 24" long. Even without the torque load the structural limit on the top is it's buckling strength. e don't use bracing to take up the compression load, but to slow down buckling.

From what I've seen and heard over the years, reducing the bracing very much from 'normal' sizes doesn't improve the sound much, if it doesn't actually hurt it. At any rate, the bracing is only 1/3 or so of the total weight of the top without the bridge, so cutting down on the brace weight isn't that much of a help. If you really want to make a difference, use the same bracing and reduce the thickness of the top by about half. That's the same as eliminating the bracing altogehter in terms of weight, and retains most of the stiffness...


I'm not in the camp that has a gut intuition that a guitar will sound "its best" (whatever that is) with no bracing. I know there are others who have that gut notion, and as an experimenter myself, I encourage all experimentation. I suspect that among other things, soundboard bracing helps to milk a more complex sound from the interaction between the strings and the soundboard. That makes me believe (with nothing to back it up) that a soundboard with no bracing at all probably does a better job at clean, fundamental tones, and not so much on complex and maybe even slightly acoustically "dirty" tones. (Sort of the comparison between solid state electronics amps and tube amps - in the end, we may prefer the slightly dirty sound and describe it as "warm" or "rich.") But, what you or I might describe as "too fundamental" may be someone else's Holy Grail sound. So, it's not so much that I'm defending the braceless notion as the fact that I invite experimentation.

Another major job of soundboard braces, if I understand the physics correctly, is to quickly distribute the vibrational signal over the entire soundboard. Sound waves (or, is it more correctly, "vibrational waves") travel with the grain quite a bit faster than they do cross grain. Thinking like a synthesizer player in terms of attack, sustain, decay, my mental model has a need for braces to spread the signal - at least cross grain - quickly, to get the "attack" on the whole soundboard to happen quickly. I used a radiating fan on both sides of a bridge plate for my first experiment, and was happy enough with the outcome to repeat that design element as I change other variables.

Don't want to get too far adrift of the original topic of tailpieces, but for me the tailpiece is just one engineering element out of three to gain the most from a tailpiece.

Dennis

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 03, 2009 4:35 pm 
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Alan Carruth wrote:
...As nearly as I can figure out, you need about 6 degrees of break angle...

muthrs wrote:
Al, I thought that about 11 degrees of break angle was the minimum necessary to hold the strings. I could be wrong but I thought you actually posted that number. I'm not trying to be picky, but I'm actually going to be working on some ideas around this.


I'm thinking we need to get Roger Siminoff and Al Carruth into a boxing ring, wearing some of those gigantitic pillow-like boxing gloves...

Nah, that won't solve anything.

Roger and Al differ in their thinking on the minimum "required" break angle, as well as the major motion of a bridge on a steelstring guitar.

If I am recalling correctly, Roger says that 15° is the minimum break angle, and says the major motion of the bridge is fore and aft (long dipole?) rocking motion.

Right, just after I said I wouldn't lead the thread astray...

Dennis

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 03, 2009 9:22 pm 
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I really aprecaite all the feed back ive gotten on this thread , there have been some very instructive comments considering it was what I thought was a "dumb Question" I am mainly into mando's however i will be attempting guitars before long.

I had the Privilidge of having a musician who has played banjo with allison krauss play my first build mando today , ( thread is "my first mando " ) and was given a very good response about the sound. he like everyone else has said the neck is to "bulky" and recommended making it smaller . however , he was very positive about the sound . as soon as i get a chance i will post a "sound clip" of it being played .

Thanks everyone who has responded to this thread , it has been quite helpfull .

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 04, 2009 8:27 am 
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So Al and Dennis, Any thoughts on my post as to how preloading the top ala archtops may affect tone?

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 04, 2009 10:32 am 
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Andy Birko wrote:
I was thinking of starting a new thread but I figure I'll post it here instead.

I do something similar in my banduras where the hole drilled in the bridge provides the break angle. You can see it in the picture. Now in my first build, the strings went all the way from the top of the bridge all the way to the level of the top creating a lot of down force on the top. Over my last couple of builds I've slowly been lifting the attachment point of the strings at the tail piece to eliminate the down force because my tops end up flattening (or in some cases even going concave) due to the downforce. You can see the "tailpiece lift" in the attached pic.

And you know what, my sound has been improving with each instrument and my tops have been deforming less and less. I'm not ready to put a causal relationship between the lack of downforce and the good tone but I at least believe it's not having a negative effect at this point.

In my next couple of builds I'm going to make the lift the same height as the saddle to get rid of as much downforce as possible (there will still be some due to a chromatic row of strings that will always have a significant break angle) and see what happens.

I have a thought and related question regarding how to get a good sound like this and why this wouldn't work on an archtop or violin type of instrument without modifying the design significantly.

In an archtop instrument, specifically of the violin family, you need a lot of downforce and break angle on the floating bridge to keep the strings firmly "connected" to the bridge while playing. A violin bow introduces a lot of energy into the string and without enough break angle, the string may "bounce" off of the "saddle". To deal with this effect, I glue my bridges to the top (as do the other zero torque/tension designs). This mechanical connection between the bridge and top in conjunction with the break angle provided by the holes in the bridge means that a vibrating string may displace the top "upward" without bouncing off the saddle.

The question is: how does the down force on the bridge affect the tone? It stands to reason that the downforce will raise the tap tones of the top the same way stretching a string or bending a saw raises their frequencies. One could also see that the top may vibrate differently when stressed than otherwise due to "preloading" of the top.

I've heard others say that increasing the downforce on an archtop type instrument will "increase the volume" but I just can't see how that could be so. The only thing I could see is that increasing the downforce would increase the maximum amplitude at which the strings may vibrate without bouncing or buzzing. However, for a given amount of energy put into the string, either by plucking or bowing, I just can't see how it would be any louder with more downforce on the bridge.

Andy Birko wrote:
So Al and Dennis, Any thoughts on my post as to how preloading the top ala archtops may affect tone?

Hi Andy,

It's not false modesty when I say that I'm not in the same league with Al Carruth. Al is the "real deal" - a left-brained luthier, a scientist, and a luthier with many years of experience and many instruments under his belt. If he told me the sky wasn't blue or that water wasn't wet, I'd go look it up somewhere to try to understand in what way that was true, but Al would have made the comments after his own experimentation, observations, and analysis. I try like heck to pepper my comments with "it seems" and "I believe" to show that a lot of what I write is conjecture and gut instinct. I'm not entirely right-brained, (actually I've tested right down the middle between left and right), but even the scientific side of lutherie for me always has a big dollop of instinct in the mix. Not that Al's right hemisphere is lying fallow - but he's certainly one of the "go to" guys for a scientific approach to questions in lutherie.

I think I need a "conjecture" bbcode for the forum.

Andy: The question is: how does the down force on the bridge affect the tone? It stands to reason that the downforce will raise the tap tones of the top the same way stretching a string or bending a saw raises their frequencies. One could also see that the top may vibrate differently when stressed than otherwise due to "preloading" of the top.

I've heard others say that increasing the downforce on an archtop type instrument will "increase the volume" but I just can't see how that could be so.


[conjecture]I think you already know more about this than I do. You've been experimenting with modifying the downforce.

It stands to reason that downforce will play a major role in the sound of an instrument like a bandurra or mandolin or the violin family instruments, and archtop guitars. Too little, and the parts will not physically acoustically couple very well, and too much and you could kill or severely dampen much of the potential sound of the soundboard (especially towards bass) by restricting vibrations. (less amplitude, less sustain) The sweet spots lie between those extremes, and exactly where the ideal is, is probably somewhat within the ear of the beholder. I think you're on the right track with your experiments, and you will be able to offer a bandurra buyer an instrument geared toward a specific timbre and that respond well to specific styles of playing, within a variety of possible timbres. Just like the very heavy-handed guitar flatpickers may be looking for something completely different in a guitar than a fingerstylist, you'll have the ammo (the knowledge) to be able to confidently build a bandurra that meets the desired criteria of the player.

Reducing the downforce near the extreme of too little downforce would allow you to modify the construction of the soundboard to thinner, lighter, and more flexible, which I'm confident would bring out more bass response in the instrument - but at the same time the gradient is shifting away from treble response. Since I'm much more familiar with mandolins than with bandurras, (but think of these instruments as having an upper midrange to treble overall timbre, traditionally) I'm trying to imagine someone like David Grisman playing a mandolin that had an extended bass range at the expense of the treble range - and I think it would be unacceptable. So, as a cheerleader on the sidelines as you do your experimentation, I'd encourage you to move toward less downforce, modify (thin, lighten, reduce bracing on) the tops to permit more movement and expand the mid bass and bass, and note the point where there is ANY discernable loss of the signature high-midrange and treble response - that would be my line in the sand.[/conjecture]

Not sure if that helps at all, but at least you know you have a supporter, cheering you on in your experimentation.

Dennis

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 04, 2009 4:04 pm 
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I _used_ to think that 11 or 12 degrees was the 'minimum' break angle, but I recently did some tests at 6 degrees and it worked OK. I'm not sure if you could go much _less_ than that, but I could change my mind next week. That's one of the things about science: you're always finding stuff out that chases your dogma out into the rain.

I thank Dennis for the vote of confidence, but, in truth, there's a lot I wish I knew about these things too. All we can do is keep learning.

I'm in the middle of a series of experiments now on break angle and saddle height on a classical guitar, and there's some interesting stuff coming out. Lots more work to do, though.

I know that too much break angle and down force can kill the tone of an rchtop, because I've tried it. In fact, these days, I try to keep the break angle on archtops as low as I can. Flat tops are harder to sort out: altering the bridge torque can change the way the top works.


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 04, 2009 7:39 pm 
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Alan Carruth wrote:
That's one of the things about science: you're always finding stuff out that chases your dogma out into the rain.


Great line.

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