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Thanks for elaborating on your method, Mike. As for the flamenco, well... it's waiting its turn. Haven't had time to work on it.

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Todd Rose
Ithaca, NY

https://www.dreamingrosesecobnb.com/todds-art-music

https://www.facebook.com/ToddRoseGuitars/

Pat, thanks for posting that. That's cool! Great idea.

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Todd Rose
Ithaca, NY

https://www.dreamingrosesecobnb.com/todds-art-music

https://www.facebook.com/ToddRoseGuitars/

Pat--A fine example of an elegant solution!
How did you join the two? Is that a screw head I see?
I would have guessed too hard to drill holes.
Thanks
Nelson Palen

I sometimes drill that hole early on in the construction process, before the back and sides are on. You make up the side assembly with the blocks and sides glued up and then put in the end graft (with purfulings if you are using them) . It's nice to put the end graft in at this stage because you can hold the assembly solidly in a vice while you work on the end graft. After the end graft is in, clamp a backer block on the inside of the endblock and drill the hole. Then continue assembly- putting top and back onto the sides/blocks. You can loosely plug the hole for finishing and it's easy to clean up around the inside of the hole after the finish is on.
For a decorative touch in the case of sound ports( windows), you can drill a 1/16" pilot hole through the block, then use a larger brad point drill to drill a shallow 1/8" hole, maybe something like 1" diameter, hole from the inside, which will center itself on the pilot hole, to fit a rosewood or something-else-nice plug into the hole. Then drill from the outside for the jack (with a backer board so you don't chip out the plug). When the guitar is done and someone looks inside through the sound ports they will see the end pin jack centered in that contrasting wood plug.

To put the end graft in this early you have to know what you will be doing as far as binding and side purfuling so you can be ready for mitering the purfs. Then remember during routing your bindings to stop at the end graft area because it has to be left a little higher ( the thickness of the side purfs) than the rest of the binding ledge to facilitate doing the miters.

A trick for that step that I read here is to tack (lightly glue) a piece of the side purfling to the top and back over the end graft (that is a more elegant name than "butt wedge", which I usually call it), just inboard of the binding thickness. Then the router shoe will ride right over it and it will automatically lift the router just the right amount, leaving just a little on either side of the wedge to trim with a chisel. Disclaimer: I haven't actually tried this yet myself, but it sounds like a great method.

Thanks for your input on drilling the jack hole before closing the box, rgirdis.

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Todd Rose
Ithaca, NY

https://www.dreamingrosesecobnb.com/todds-art-music

https://www.facebook.com/ToddRoseGuitars/

Thats a nifty trick! I always just saw/chisel/sand/file it down, but that seems worth trying.

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Jordan Aceto
Ithaca, NY

Todd…Here’s another way to skin the cat. You’ll need a drill press or milling machine and a jig to secure the box. It’s an ordinary twist drill bit that I ground down at an angle.
Feed slowly when entering and exiting. Works like a charm.

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Rich S

"The inconvenience of poor quality will linger long after the thrill of a bargain has been forgotten"

Very interesting, Rich!
Another elegantly simple solution!
Nelson Palen