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PostPosted: Mon Jan 26, 2009 2:51 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 04, 2005 10:03 am
Posts: 6680
Location: Abbotsford, BC Canada
I go right up to 12000 micro mesh because I want a mirror finish inside the body :D

OK, just kidding.

I go to 220 just because. Use the ROS before gluing on the braces, takes a minute and makes it nice and clean looking (seems that's the new standard these days).

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 26, 2009 3:09 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jul 02, 2006 2:57 am
Posts: 449
Location: United States
Good idea about making sure that you're not spraying oil. Hadn't thought about that, but it's the same setup I use for spraying nitro so I'm oil free.

Thanks for the affirmations and it's good to know I have something in common with Benedetto beside the same first name.


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 26, 2009 4:05 pm 
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Joined: Wed Oct 08, 2008 11:36 am
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Location: Southeast US
City: Lenoir City
State: TN
Zip/Postal Code: 37772
Country: US
Focus: Repair
I learned long ago when building furniture that it is much easier to sand before gluing. So I generally prepare my surfaces to 220 and have had no problems with glue joints in furniture and three other instruments. I'm still working on my first acoustic so no telling what may happen to my acoustics in the future but I sanded the inside of #1 to 220 cause I like the way it looks and feels.

That said, for critical joints I am satisfied that a freshly scraped/planed surface is the way to go, have joined boards for table tops and panels this way for years, and have tried to do the same with my first acoustic. Just my 2 cents.

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 26, 2009 8:27 pm 
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Joined: Mon May 26, 2008 2:31 pm
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Location: Conway, Arkansas
Wow! Thanks for all the responses. I think I know where I fit in now.
Bill

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