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Hi again Lars.

Yes I do think you should put some reinforcement braces in the soundhole area. I personnnally think that the beefier they are the better it is. But like most of what guitar science is, that is what I believe more than what I actually know, so take this for what it's worth. But do put some braces up there...

And I also think you should carve away those abrupt peaks, as Steve mentionned.

And lastly, I don't know what the thikness of your soundplate is, but it looks thick to me. Maybe it's just an illusion of the picture thogh. for myself, I usually aim for about .090-.100.

If it's any help, here is a picture of my bracing patern.

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Alain Moisan
Former full time builder of Acoustics, Classicals and Flamencos.
(Now building just for fun!)

I have two things (they are only personal taste though).

On the rosette, I would have made the wood ring larger and added the same w/b purfling lines on the inside against the wood. It looks like the shell stops just to abruptly. (you wanted a critique right).

Second, the bridge plate looks pretty big to me. I don't know what the dimensions of it is, I try not to make them more then 1/4" overhang of the bridge dimension (this is running north to south if you know what I mean).





It really doesn't matter what you cap the x brace with as long as you cap it. The ONLY thing that might be an issue with using a different wood is the difference between the two with change in humidity but that would be so insignificant on a 1/32-1/16" thick piece of wood.

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I agree with those who say you should lower the tone bars and have the peaks be less abrupt. The outside tone bar can be shorter than the inside one. The tone bars could taper further from the outside edge too. They don't give much support there and can restrict top movement.

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Ken Franklin
clumsy yet persistent
https://www.kenfranklinukulele.com