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One more thing, the factory grind on my ibex blades was bordering on too steep- causing the flat of the bevel to ride on the work and force the blade up in to the plane body when used vigorously.

Just like any bevel down plane, you need to make sure that the bevel is acute enough to keep the buisiness end in the work. Imagine a standard 45 degree bench plane, now grind the blade to say, 60 degrees, you can see that the point of the blade will not contact the work, and you will just rub the back of your bevel on the wood. Whichever blades you use, keep that bevel acute enough.

I think of ibex planes as being a plane kit, that you need to finish yourself (better blades with correct grinding and honing, flatten the bed, file mouth if necessary, palm handles for 18mm and up) to get the max out of them. They are a great design, so it is worth it to get them really singing. I hope this helps a little, i was frustrated with mine for a while and struggled in the dark until i arrived at total planing satisfaction.

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Jordan Aceto
Ithaca, NY

OK, I fully get what you and Jordan are all saying. It took a while to sink in (was tired when I first read it all).

Could you guys please reccomend a series of stones? (for use with Ibex and all my other chisels).

Jordan, how do you put a handle on the larger Ibex?

Thanks guys,

Mike

I usually just use sandpaper on glass for most of the sharpening, and finish with the takenoko stone that everyone likes so well, available from lmii or the japan woodworker.

To add a palm rest, i filled in the portion of the plane body under the blade with wood and a layer of brass, to have something substantial to tap a machine screw into. Said machine screw tapped in from the back holds the wooden palm rest on. Hmmm, a picture would be completely self explanetory, but i never have a camera handy when i need one.

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Jordan Aceto
Ithaca, NY

Well, I have a granite tile... and some sand paper from an auto parts store, 600, 1000, 1500, and 2000 grit. I usually lay 600, 1000, and 1500 side by side on the tile.

I figured there was some drilling and tapping... wanted to be sure I understood.

I actually attempted a small amount of honing on one blade (by hand) and it seemed to make a positive difference.

Mike

Mike, for curved blades there are a few options which some of the fellas here already outlined. The one that seems easiest/cheapest for me involves a block of softwood (basswood or pine is fine) and some honing compound. What you do is make your normal curved cut into the softwood. It should measure a few inches. Next.... you charge that canal you just carved with honing compound, or different grades of diamond paste if you wish to bring the blade through many different grits (depending on condition of blade). Once the gouge/canal mark you made in the wood is charged with the compound, you go to work sharpening whatever convex tool you may have.

For gouges, you can take a round piece of wood (match the size to your gouge), cover it with sandpaper and work it like that.

That's the best method I've ever heard about. 95% of my planes are convex so obviously this is an important issue to me too! I asked here once as well. It was a while ago, but I vaguely remember some members saying to use my usual system (Scary Sharp or Waterstones), and just slowly work the convex edge by hand. Which I still think is good advice.

These two methods are the only ones I am aware of. If there are more I would love to hear them. It would be great if they made a jig for convex plane blades.

Nice and comfy.

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Jordan Aceto
Ithaca, NY

I sharpen and hone my Ibex curved blade freehand - I don't think it's too hard but I have been freehand sharpening knives, planes and carving tools for many years so my opinion might be biased.

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Steve Smith
"Music is what feelings sound like"