Rob Lak wrote:
Question: Would you consider this type of neck joint simpler to exectute than a bolt on?
No
Rob Lak wrote:
Yours seems to eliminate for the need of the routed top. To be honest i was nervous that it would be a source of a rattle. I had also looked at some elevated neck designs but none that I felt i wanted to pursue yet.
The top is routed to let the 2 CF rods running full height under the FB extension, two 3/16" channels about .200" deep. The neck block is footed and also has a paddle under the top where the channels are. No rattle as the neck pushes on the set screws with over 160lbs of string tension. The set screws butt on brass inserts BTW.
Those two approaches are different beasts, the adjustable neck needs to be treated like a neck with a floating FB extension would be.
With the traditional approach of gluing or fastening the FB extension the string tension load is distributed on the top as well, which really helps stabilizing the structure. Some would say detrimental to tone, but that's arguable as a lot is with lutherie.
With a floating FB the load is concentrated on the top of the neck block and on the neck heel. The neck heel is end/short grain and not too strong in the direction of the load.
On this B-3 there is a mortise/tenon joint that is not particularly useful except the slender heel is really beefed up by the tenon. I also drilled for a 3/8" maple dowel going full length in the tenon. It seems to help as I haven't seen any deformation yet and the guitar has been strung for over a month with light PBs.
On a previous experiment I did a floating FB extension (bolt-on mortise and tenon), non adjustable, and didn't beef up the heel or the neck block. What happens is the heel bends enough with string tension to bring the FB extension closer to the top, inevitably raising the action. It is strung with Xtra lights now and I need to work on it, either solidly fastening the extension to the paddle under the top, or running a steel tube in the neck heel, or both just to be overkill.
On the latest guitars I'm working on there is no mortise or tenon, the heel is flush with the upper bout but is reinforced by a 3/8" hollow steel tube (filled with a hardwood dowel) going full height, and that's where the bolts used to set the action butt. This is directly influenced by Rick Turner's method. The neck block is also beefed up with an interesting piece of joinery. We shall see when I string them up.
To answer your question, there is no free lunch (never is) and the mortise/tenon joint is probably the easiest to execute, that and a flush heel with hanger bolts.
A structure is as strong as the weakest component is.