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All,

I'm just wondering how the different luthiers here control the angle of the fretboard extension vs. the angle of the soundboard to ensure the two are parallel (such that you don't have to shim under the fretboard or get that 12th/14th fret hump where the fretboard crosses the rim)?

After reading an article on Kenneth Michael Guitars: http://www.kennethmichaelguitars.com/neckangle.html and seeing a couple of videos it seems there are a number of methods that some builders use.........while it seems other builders don't do anything in particular at all in this area.

The methods I've come across include:
1) sanding the rim in the upper bout (from about the waist forward) so the soundboard angle matches the fretboard ext. angle
2) creating some relief into the outside edges on the back of the soundhole brace such that it lifts the soundboard a a little in the middle of the upper bout to meet the angle of the fretboard extension
3) using sanding discs to create a radius in the rim and neckblock such that it sets the angle of the soundboard parallel to the fretboard (this method without corresponding work to the back of the soundhole brace seems like it wouldn't yield consistent results)

So tell me, how do you accomplish the proper parallel angles in your builds?

Thanks,

Erik

Check This tutorial from Hesh http://www.lenaweelutherie.info/page6/page24/page24.html

Fred

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Fred Tellier
http://www.fetellierguitars.com
Facebook page http://www.facebook.com/pages/FE-Tellier-Guitars/163451547003866

Thanks for the link Fred. Great read and a few other nice articles.

By the way, do you use the same method for your builds?

I radius the sides to 28' then flatten the upper bout similar to that.

Fred

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Fred Tellier
http://www.fetellierguitars.com
Facebook page http://www.facebook.com/pages/FE-Tellier-Guitars/163451547003866

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QYHPCeVRUA4 The 14th fret hump needs to be mastered to create that line to the fretboard and top . You need to understand the relationship of the top geometry . Lets look at what your target is and start there . In the perfect set up you want to have about 1/2 inch string height . So how do you do this? I am a Martin traditionalist and use the same 1 1/2 degree neck angle . this video will explain what I do . If you do not establish this neck angle in the beginning on the side set ( yes Martin does to this ) your fretboard will either ski up or drop off when you attach the neck.
A mold is needed to do this so that you can be accurate . Building boards don't work as well . Most use a 28 foot radius to help establish the angle . In the Martin factory , they have a sanding jig that is set at 1 1/2 degree and use a 42 foot radius on the braces . I use a 28 foot radius but do not radius the total top . Getting the upper area of the top trued to the angle allows you to hit the target . If you don't do this you are at best guessing and your process will not be repeatable . When you start building keep a log and the more experience you gain you will get to the point that setting a neck become very easy . I have a few necks drop in without any setting at all . The better you control your process the better the end result .

_________________
John Hall
blues creek guitars
Authorized CF Martin Repair
Co President of ASIA
You Don't know what you don't know until you know it