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Hi all, any useful observations on bending bird's eye maple? (Bosnian).
For EI rosewood (for example) I hand bend on a hot iron, hot enough to make the droplets "dance" and use a thickness of 2mm and spritz with water. Occasionally I'll use a spring steel strap support to make the waist bend.

Thicker, thinner? Hotter iron, cooler? More water, less?

Also any tips to minimize staining/scorching?

Thanks!

I've only bent 1 set (hand bent) but they really did cup a lot. That's not to say that yours will. The wood bent easy enough, so that factor should not be too much of a problem. Thickness was very close to what you indicated. I use a spring steel backing strip. Piece of Brown wrapping paper between the iron and the wood/spring strip helps with staining issues on light coloured woods. If I spritz it's only at the waist. . . or you could try my foil wrap idea, but don't blame me!

Dave;
instead of a steel strap I use a .020 wood(light in color) veneers that are wetted.
One on each side-especially in the tight bends.
The water steams and the side bends very easily.
No burns.
thickness of side 2mm
Iron -hot as all hell-you want the steam !

Mc

_________________
Mike Collins

Thank you Michael and Mike.
Lots of good info and tips!
Best

I've only made two with bird's eye rock maple. I don't know how it compares to european maple. When being bent without water, it bends easier than spanish cypress, yellow cedar and mahogany. It still cups, tho. The tip of dry bending is to over-bend everywhere at the first time. I bent mine at 2 mm thick or so.