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PostPosted: Sun Aug 29, 2010 11:29 am 
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I thought I measured this! wow7-eyes What do I do now! Do they make a longer inset? Should I not use the washer...? The neck is finished. Please tell me I'm not scewed... gaah


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 29, 2010 11:31 am 
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ouch.


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 29, 2010 11:34 am 
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Maybe another brand or model of tuner has a longer insert? Worth looking into unless you're dead set on using those exact tuners. Good luck.


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 29, 2010 11:35 am 
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OK .. you are not screwed ... you're bolted .... I have never heard/seen longer threaded tuner flanges .... I am guessing you measured before you added the back plate.

I am thinking you are refinishing this once you thin the back ... the other, maybe better option is to recess the washer on the top and then refin that ....

Always measure .. most tuners want a headstock around 500-600 thou thick. I use 580 or so. take into account the plates and veneer lines you are adding ...

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 29, 2010 11:47 am 
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Okay, I realized what happened. I measured with Grovers, before I ordered the Gotohs which have a shorter shaft. I just tried the Grovers and they work. They also seem to have a thinner washer... Rats, I wanted to use the Gotohs for this build. I guess I'll save them for another. This is number 5. There's no substitute for experience...
Thanks for the replies.
Steve

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 29, 2010 11:49 am 
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You could consider turning it into a slothead if the holes would get wasted in the process of routing the slots.But you would have to exchange the existing for new tuners. Slotted headstocks are around .750" while pegs are around .625". Seems like every option will require refinishing.

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 29, 2010 12:07 pm 
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Like you have just figured out .. always check with the tuners you are using .. they are not always the same. 625 is about the upper limit for a gotoh .. better at 580-600 ... almost any tuner will work at 580 .... too thin and you have to grind the threads some or it wont tighten enough and the washer will rattle ...

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 29, 2010 3:37 pm 
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I came into the same problem when taking Sergei de Jonge's course. I was entending on using gotoh 510s. The standard tuner wouldn't reach. Low and behold, gotoh has a 510 series that has an adjust height flange. Fixed the problem. And it is great to know that they are out there (in case that little oops happens again).

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 29, 2010 4:17 pm 
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sdsollod wrote:
Okay, I realized what happened. I measured with Grovers, before I ordered the Gotohs which have a shorter shaft. I just tried the Grovers and they work. They also seem to have a thinner washer... Rats, I wanted to use the Gotohs for this build. I guess I'll save them for another. This is number 5. There's no substitute for experience...
Thanks for the replies.
Steve


It sounds like you've got it under control. I made a headstock too thick once. I'm blaming it on electronic calipers not being zeroed on zero. I gave the (local) client a choice of using different tuners or waiting for me to fix and re finish the neck. I ended up using open back tuners.

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 29, 2010 5:41 pm 
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Koa
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How about countersinking down about 1/8 inch or so and dropping the nut and washer flush to the top. It might be hard to tighten the nut, and the post might be low to the top surface to string up. Just an idea. Jason

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 30, 2010 6:14 am 
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Gotoh has lots of tuners you don't see at the usual suppliers. Get a copy of their online catalog. I special order mine from Shane at High Mountain Tonewood.

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 30, 2010 3:18 pm 
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Some folks counterbore as Jason Moe has posted not just to correct for an overthick headstock but also to limit finish checking under the washers.I think the counterbore should be less than the headplate thichhess. A cutter can be made from drill rod or similar stock with a small section of tool bit mounted in a hole about 1/2" from the end of the drill rod. This is held in place by a small set screw in the end of rod pressing on the tool bit. The rod should be a few thou less in diameter than the mounting holes.This is a time to has a machinist as a good friend.
Tom

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 31, 2010 1:34 pm 
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Koa
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Steve, the nut and washer can be thinned a little if you have access to a lathe.
The nut can be mounted on a mandrel with a tiny bit of press fit and then the flange faced to reduce thickness.
The washer can be mounted on a similar mandrel for facing. Doesn't take a lot to hold them as you're just facing a little bit of brass.
This will let the threads get started to assemble if you're anywheres close.
Seems like about .687 HS thickness if max for doing this though with Gotoh 510's.
DAMHIKT :D
Nelson

P.S. Shane searched the world for some longer hexnuts for me a couple years back. To no avail.


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