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Binding Machines : Looks like they're about the same outlay ($) somewhat, by the time your all done, .....any preferences, caveats, recommendations, regarding the Stew-Mac and the LMI. units. I've been mucking along old school with the Dremel router and straight bit, and think I might like / need a change.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.


michael

A lot of the forum members here have built there own. You will spend less than $50.00 if you build it yourself. There are a couple of different designs that are popular. Just do a search for binding jigs. I know some people are intimidated when it comes to building tools and jigs but if you can build a guitar, then a jig shouldn't be any more difficult.

Here's a link to mine.

viewtopic.php?f=10101&t=27515

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Tim

I bought the tower binding machine from John Hall, and just did 2 guitar bodies that came out perfectly - I couldn't be happier. I definitely recommend John if you are going to buy.

Glenn

A lot of folks don't use them,instead use a laminate trimmer with a simple jig mounted to it that registers off the sides and the edge of the top or back.
Tom

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A person who has never made a mistake has never made anything!!!

If ur handy with tools (not a bad trait in this business) then build a Williams. You will be amazed at how fast, clean, and accurate the channels will be. Oh, u did not mention bearings, those can be quite expensive relative to the shop built Williams machine

I have the Stew-mac true channel and it works real well for me, I have used it on 6 guitars with no issues. I use the LMI cutter bearing set as at the time there were more available bearing sizes and sheer cut angle on the cutter though since then Stew-mac has done similar.

Fred

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Fred Tellier
http://www.fetellierguitars.com
Facebook page http://www.facebook.com/pages/FE-Tellier-Guitars/163451547003866

Here is the one I made. I can never remember which name this design falls under. I think I spent about $50 or so on the whole thing. Really pretty simple. There is a tutorial on the net about building it. I used it just this weekend on a friend's guitar. It really works well, and I would highly recommend it.

Would someone kindly place a link here for the plans (or at least a searchable name of a supplier)? I can never remember where I bought these plans.

Thank you gentlemen! I will build one, and join that crowd. Very helpfull advice!

Thanks; Michael

Here ya go, Mike: http://www.dewguitars.com/BindingJig/Binding%20Jig.htm

Not really "plans" per se, but I think most have built their version based on this description -- it's pretty complete.

I figured that I could easily find it on Don's site, but the home page has been disabled as he is on "long-term hiatus", whatever than means. Then I remembered that Kathy Matsushita had posted a link to the jig page on her site, and I found it there.

I might just need to be labeled as a luthier with special needs. I had trouble with my Williams machine again this past weekend as I tried to cut the binding channels. The sides were perpendicular to the table in the cradle, and I used LMI's cutter and bearing set. My channels still came out uneven. I believe the problem for me lays in the point of contact. The ledge on my donut is very small (maybe 1/8"), and it seems to drag a little. I'm just not very confident when using and am considering the Luthier Tool handheld jig. I've never heard of anyone else having this problem though. In fact, I usually hear about people being able to do their channels with a blindfold.

I too built a gooseneck binding jig but I came across what i feel is a simpler method. Also more versatile. I built and love my router table. I have a convex guide to keep the guitar even and use the table with the router mounted which is extremely stable. I hold and guide the guitar.
I also use the router table for countless other tasks. One of my most favorite tools.

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Greg
http://garibaldiinstruments.com/

I made my own. Can be seen in this video clip briefly

http://mayesguitars.com/binding.mov

Here is a little blog about doing some binding on Steven Curtis Chapman's latest... better pics of my jig and some brief explanations:

http://mayesguitars.com/index.php?optio ... &Itemid=48

I've used this jig for around 7 years. Still going strong. I think I'm going to re-visit the carrige a bit to change the method of adjustment. Currently just using shims and that works, but I'm wanting to make it a bit easier.

Normally uneven channels is about prep not the actual routing.

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John Mayes
http://www.mayesluthier.com

So the convex guide is your donut ? I like this idea - I guess you have to be careful to always keep the guitar level on the donut ledge ? any other pictures of the process ? what are the downsides to cutting the binding this way ? any tips on making the donut ?

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It's this new idea from recent decades that everyone gets a participation award. - MUX

It wouldn't surprise me. I'm just not sure how else to prep. I'm leveling the sides first.

Edit: John, that's really a great blog post. Just more reason why I'm glad you're active here again

James, assuming your router base is standard according to the plans, buy some of the specified nylon inserts, (mcmaster carr) cut and shape to your needs. 1/8" sounds too small.

Thanks Mike. Don built it, so it's to spec. It's just that there seems to be drag and it's hard to keep the router tight to the side. It has a tendency to want to fall away from the cut. After reading John's post, it seems that I can do more prep, too.

Assuming your sides are VERY flat all the way to the edge, and your router/jig setup is solid it might be your carriage too. If the guitar rocks at all in the carriage then that will cause issues. Also make sure your router is not flexing... more so the base.. if it is deflecting that can cause thin channels. Just some things to look for.

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John Mayes
http://www.mayesluthier.com

The "donut" was made by putting a 1/4" bolt thru a 1/2" piece of MDF which I had cut round with a circle cutter. Diam approx 4.5"
The bolted disc was chucked into my dill press and turned slow speed and shaped with coarse grit paper to my estimated desired convexity and finished with some KTM9 to make smooth.
I use a combination of rebate cutters from stewmac and elsewhere
The key is the stability of the router table. This one is from a plan I downloaded from a woodworker mag site. It is heavy. The top is 1.5" of laminated 3/4" MDF and the body is all3/4" MDF. I used about 6 sheets of 2'x4' 2/4" MDF.
The guitar is held as close to horizontal as possible. The depth of the rabate is fairly easy as it is guded by the bearing size. The height can be tricky if I don't have the guitar body level. Then the height varies. Took some practice. Areas which have too shallow height can be ce-cut. Area which are too deep... Well I try not to let that happen.

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Greg
http://garibaldiinstruments.com/

You can get a drawing for a binding jig here:

http://www.luthierscooltools.com/Dwgs.htm#Binding Jig