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have a '77 Takamine F-360S with a K&K PWM. I'm very well aware that some hold them in high regard, and others find them to be so so. Whichever side of the fence you're on, I need some help.

This has been my main guitar for the past 12 years. From Lone Star Rallies and biker rides to campfires and lake fronts. I sung my little boy to sleep with it, and have written countless songs. Simply put, it's an extension of myself.

When I picked it up 12 years ago, there was (and still is) a nice crack in the top that I assume came from the guitar hitting the ground. It's the only way I can think that would cause such a thing. A huge batwing pickguard was added to cover the crack, which I removed.

Over the years, the neck angle has gotten worse and worse, and while the guitar is still playable, the action is higher than I would like with the proper break angle at the saddle.

I'd like to find someone who can do a neck reset on her, as I know her neck joint is filled with epoxy and most don't have the experience or the desire to take on the task. I'm also looking to have the braces reshaped and a refret.

I'd thought about Bryan Kimsey, but he states on his website he's not interested in taking on such tasks, so whom would you recommend? Preferably in Texas, but I'm willing to ship.

I suppose I should probably add that as long as I can get her to sing and play as well as she used to, I'm not worried about possible finish problems that may arise from the amount of heat needed to loosen the epoxy.

I will provide extensive pics if needed. Just let me know.

I would be glad to help but first I would want to see the guitar to evaluate what the real problem is If in deed it is in need of a neck set, fretboard re-level/refret the cost for that is roughly $600. In regards to bracing being re-rasped, I am not sure what you are asking for there. I am guessing the back bracing may have gotten durty and and you want them cleand up. Or you are wanting some top brace modifacation to inhance the tops responce?

I am in Odessa Tx

I'm looking to have the top braces reshaped or scalloped to add a bit of lightness and better response, if it's needed after the reset. I have a feeling that after the neck is put back in the correct geometry with the top that will bring things back close to how they used to be. I'm not looking for an act of God to turn this into a '37 D-28, but this guitar has given me everything it's got, and I feel it's time to return the favor and get the most out of it.

Epoxy wasn't particularly common in Guitar construction back in '77.. or even commonly available commercially... so your old Tak may very well have a conventional dovetail set neck using either Hide glue or Yellow/White PVA.

New ones are well known for being full of Epoxy -- but even then, most common epoxys degrade at lower temperatures than what will separate Hide glue.... so they will still come apart with heat... Steam does nothing to them, though...

Personally, I would find a local luthier who is well known in your area for good repair work... Go show it to him and see if he can do the work for you. (Nothing against Michael -- who I am sure does great work.) I would hold off on the modifications to the bracing until the neck is reset... as getting that neck set right will help get the action straightened back out... which will certainly make it sound better.

Thanks

John

John I had already sent a PM explaining that I would not recommend any brace modification until the neck work was complete and then to be aware that altering the braces can have dramatic affect on the tonal balance of the guitar and should be done only if needed and then sparingly.

Epoxy was used on guitars of this era. Takamine may have a tech section where you can get this info. I hate epoxy necks . Having been in this business for over 10 years I have seen some funny things.
When you are in doubt of what you are looking at there are some removal techniques that can put the odds in your favor. If it is epoxy you can get the neck off but most likely will need to be cut off.
One technique that works is cutting the fretboard 3 frets up the neck and remove the lower section. This allows you to access the neck joint and you can drill into the joint to inject steam and heat. If you do have epoxy this lets you access the neck joint to do what you need to do. Also once you reglue the fretboard on the neck you will have the structural strength. In the old days we used to cut off the extension 1 fret lower . This made access to the joint but didn't allow much structural strength on the reglue.

_________________
John Hall
blues creek guitars
Authorized CF Martin Repair
Co President of ASIA
You Don't know what you don't know until you know it

yep I have reset necks on late 70's-90's model takie-macs in the past. All I have incounterd had epoxy in the joint. It not thta bad of epoxy to stem free if you have good access to the joint.