Official Luthiers Forum!

I have used CA (both black and clear--I prefer clear) to fill the fret ends and repair some tiny "oops" areas on ebony and am wondering about using it as the pore filler for the headplate. The neck will most likely be Tru-Oil like my #1, but I wasn't happy with the way the headplate came out.

Bad idea?

Also, "Guitarmaking" and Kinkade's books don't really address the issue of tuner placement. Is there some sort of measurement so I can be sure that I won't have any strings touching?

Thanks!

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Don't confront me with my failures--I have not forgotten them.

Well, I've never seen any ebony that had pores to fill. I coat mine with the same StewMac FB oil that I use on the FB.

Ron

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OLD MAN formerly (and formally) known as:

Ron Wisdom

Somewhere in the middle of Arkansas......

I second what Old man says. As for the kinkade book which I have read it does have a blue print with it. You could copy the measurements from that. There is no real rule on the tuner placement. They do have to have enough room between each of the tuner knobs for comfortable use. They should look symmtric but thats not a law either. It all depends on the shape and size of the headstock you have used. My spacing is 1 and 3/4 inches center to center.

Just make a full size drawing of the nut and headstock and where your tuners will go. Not hard to do,but advisable.

If I wanted to fill ebony,I'd use black epoxy.

Tru Oil is a beautiful finish,but please be advised that it WILL NOT stand pressure,like a capo. I finished a violin I made 30 years ago with Tru Oil. I had the violin hanging in my musical instrument maker's shop in Colonial Williamsburg for some time,when I noticed that the bridge had sunk right through the finish all the way down to the bare wood!!! The finish was squeezed up around the feet of the bridge. Things proceeded slowly in a shop open to the public,and the violin had had months to dry before I strung it. I had to refinish the violin with a more traditional oil varnish,and never used it on instruments again. I was afraid that the lining of a case would also print the Tru Oil. Tru Oil was easy to put on,looked great,but be warned!! It is a heartache to have to strip an instrument and re do it. Even worse if you sold it to a customer.

Ebony doesn't usually have pores big enough to require filling. I've use CA for pore filling all kinds of woods. I see no reason it won't work on ebony if needed. When I was designing my headstock I made one out of 1/4" plywood so I could draw out, and visualize the tuners, nut and strings. I use that piece now for a pattern for both shape and tuner holes. My tuners are either 1 3/4" or 1 5/8" apart lengthwise (I can remember which) and 1/2" from the edge of the headstock.

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I didn't mean to say it, but I meant what I said.
http://www.brackettinstruments.com/

Ebony does have pores as stated above, They are tiny as compared to other woods. I us CA on all rosewoods and ebony. I find CA fills and levels nicely.

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John Hall
blues creek guitars
Authorized CF Martin Repair
Co President of ASIA
You Don't know what you don't know until you know it

I recently "finished" an ebony headplate by simply polishing it with micromesh up to 12,000 grit. The ebony and the abalone inlay both took on a very nice sheen that IMHO looks better than a real shiny ebony surface.
Walter

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Walter Lay
"It's taken me so long, but now that I know
I can see. All that I do or say, is all I ever will be"
- Billy Joe Shaver

CA works fine on ebony. I thought ebony had no pores until I started using super-sharp, super-hard cutters on it. Anything less than that tends to fill the pores somehow.

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Bob Garrish
Former Canonized Purveyor of Fine CNC Luthier Services

I use CA on all my headplates and heelcaps as the pore filler .... makes the finishing go easier IMO.

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Tony Karol
www.karol-guitars.com
"let my passion .. fulfill yours"