Official Luthiers Forum!

Hi Guys! I haven't been in for 2 weeks for the most part. I remodeled the Dining room. Even cleaned the windows! Back to guitars!
I haven't looked in the land of misinformation. I would rather get a recomendation here.
I have a Ridgid 14". I would like to cut billets with it. I am self taught and new to Bandsaws.
I was cutting a rock last night. I mean Maple Trying to make a slab big enough for a large Archtop Pickguard. Geeze! This was the first time I have asked a chore of this saw. The bottom rubber was slipping. The blade was slipping..... I have the manual and can work the basics. I tried the wheel adjustments back and forth and tracking and and and ......but I am missing something. So far it's not any of my fingers.
I know I am a bit undersized for the billet chore but it what I got for now. I'd love a video or a truck load of pictures on how to maximize the use of this thing.

You'll find a lot of info in this book:
http://www.amazon.com/New-Complete-Guide-Band-Saw/dp/1565233182/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1250191474&sr=1-2.

_________________
Laurent Brondel
West Paris, Maine - USA
http://www.laurentbrondel.com/

What blade were you using? For resawing thick stock, a 1/2" 3TPI (teeth per inch) or variable 3-4TPI blade has
been the best for me on my 14". Closely set teeth don't have very large gullets, and the gullets fill with sawdust
before the teeth clear the bottom of the workpiece. Causes excess friction, burning, slow cutting, wandering of
the blade. A lot of people, myself included, like the Woodslicer from Highland Hardware, but there are other good
ones from other suppliers.

_________________
Gene

Politicians and diapers must be changed often, and for the same reason- Mark Twain

I use a 1/2" Woodslicer on my Grizzly 14". I can cut cleaner and thinner with it than with other regular blades I've tried. I have not tried a carbide tipped blade though.

_________________
Steve Smith
"Music is what feelings sound like"

"Band Saw Handbook" is another good shop reference.

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Tom Krebs

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=toNsPh-pxgc

I"ll check out the books and learn more about the blades. I would prefer a video though. I did find this one on operating a table saw.

I have an older version of the book Laurent Brondel recomends. Great book. I recomend it to...Mike

First the blade tension has to be proper for your blade size. Second you need to adjust the tracking. Then 3rd you need to adjust the upper and lower guide bearings and thrust bearings. They all have to be alligned properly to the blade. If not set properly the blade will not track very well and it won't cut well at all.

Howdy YJ John,
Here is a link to a video that Grant Goltz made. He's over on the Luthier's Community. Although he is using a 20" Grizzly and not a 14" there still is a lot of good info here.

Here is the link.

http://www.luthiercom.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=56&t=113

_________________
"After forty-nine years of violin building, I have decided that the search for a varnish is similar to the fox hunt. The fun is in the hunt."
Jack Batts Maker and Repairer of Fine Violins

Like everyone else has said, go through your bandsaw and align, square and tweak everything as good as you can. It all helps.

Has anyone mentioned the catalog from Iturra Design - lots of information in there, he actually has a bunch of small articles in there and he sells some good products too. I put in one of his tension springs in my 14" Grizzly and it made a noticeable improvement in tracking when resawing. The original spring was just too weak. They're in Jacksonville Fl and you can call them at 866-883-8064.

_________________
Steve Smith
"Music is what feelings sound like"

hi guys
i found the exact same type of model as a grizzly 12" in a old yard
its missing the rectangular piece which holds the blade at the top of the throat
could anyone inform me what the piece is called ?

ive been googling around looking for parts for days....... so much so that
i would make the dam thing in the time ive spent
thanks again tomas

I have that saw, with a riser block. Works OK, the key is not to feed any faster than the saw can consume without excess laboring. On a block like that, it will be just barely perceptable that you are making any progress, but slowly you will get through it.