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PostPosted: Fri Feb 06, 2009 10:50 pm 
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Mahogany
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I'am not an expert on the band saw but it makes sense to me that whatever method you use,the part of the blade in contact with the tire should be as close to the set as possible so that it can help disapate heat from the cutting edge.


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 08, 2009 6:39 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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Well not to beat up on a dead horse but curiosity got the best of me. Sitting a bit bored with no football to watch I went and dusted of my 20 year old copy of Mark Duginske/s Band Saw handbook and went to chapter 5. Read it over several times and I'll be darned if I could find where he states to track your blade with the front edge a little past center. That probably works out with a 1/4" blade due to it's narrow width. Maybe a newer edtion is different? [uncle]

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PostPosted: Sun Feb 08, 2009 9:17 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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It doesn't state it in those exact terms. But with what it says and what I learned form other woodworkers it makes sense and works for me. If only 1/4" of the blade is supported it stands to reason at least for me that I would want the support to be near the front of the blade to help keep the blade from wondering and fluttering doesn't it? idunno With a 1/2" blade it's pretty much centered. My setup now with an 1/2" blade is only off center by 1/16" towards the back. That puts the front of my blade 3/16" from center of wheel. I've nevered used a 3/4" blade because I was told that 14" saws weren't setup for the tension for a 3/4" blade and that with my setup method with the front being where it is there is too much blade to the aft unsupported and moving it forward would lead to more difficulties with blade drift. So I've just stuck with 1/2" for the largest. I'm not saying that 3/4" won't work with another setup and fence compensating. I'm just saying that this has worked for me and maybe if someone is having trouble with drift then maybe this blade tracking method is worth giving a look at if your wheels are coplanar and your machine is setup okay. [uncle]


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 09, 2009 2:09 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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"I've nevered used a 3/4" blade because I was told that 14" saws weren't setup for the tension for a 3/4" blade "
I agree.

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 09, 2009 9:06 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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Filippo there are 14" saws and then there are 14" saws. ;)

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 09, 2009 10:15 am 
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Koa
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Mabey most 14" saws can't tension a 3/4 " blade but the RIKON can and does.And it has alot more power than the others as well. ;)


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 09, 2009 2:28 pm 
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Cast iron frame 14" saws such as Grizzly, Jet and so on are the ones that can't tension adequately for a 3/4" blade. The Rikon, and others, with a boxed and welded frame can handle a higher tension.

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 09, 2009 3:37 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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SteveSmith wrote:
Cast iron frame 14" saws such as Grizzly, Jet and so on are the ones that can't tension adequately for a 3/4" blade. The Rikon, and others, with a boxed and welded frame can handle a higher tension.

Exactly Steve. I bought a Ridgid with cast iron frame. IMHO it's a POS. I just use it for normal band sawing chores.

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The Zootman
1109 Military Rd.
Kenmore, NY 14217
(716) 874-1498


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 11, 2009 3:09 am 
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Mahogany
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Bobc wrote:
Exactly Steve. I bought a Ridgid with cast iron frame. IMHO it's a POS. I just use it for normal band sawing chores.


I got one of those (the Ridgid 14") and installed a 6" riser block when I assembled it three years ago, and I'm pretty happy with it. I've done quite a bit of resawing on it with good results. I find that I have to take it slow - trying to force the wood through too fast will make the blade wander. I use a Timberwolf 1/2" 3TPI skip-tooth blade with it. I bought one of Grizzly's house-brand blades once and was not happy with the results.

--Steve

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PostPosted: Wed Feb 11, 2009 6:16 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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Steve I use to have an old Delta 14" that was made in the USA. I guess I was spoiled by the quality of that saw.

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Beautiful and unusual tone woods at a reasonable price.
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The Zootman
1109 Military Rd.
Kenmore, NY 14217
(716) 874-1498


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 11, 2009 7:59 am 
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The 14" cast iron saws can resaw with a bit of work and the right blade. They're just not at all ideal. I'm still using a 14" Grizzly with a riser. I added an Iturra tension spring and cool blocks, then spent a fair amount of time getting everything set up right. I use a 1/2" 3-4 variable TPI Woodslicer blade that works much better for me than the Timberwolfs.
http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=1294

It will get the job done but I can't wait till I can upgrade at least to the Rikon 14" with the welded frame. I'd get something larger but my shop is too small.

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PostPosted: Wed Feb 11, 2009 8:57 am 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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PS I love my Laguna. bliss My 16" Jet is a good saw too. Gave to my son.
12" Craftsman OK for it's intended use but the guides are horrible.

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Beautiful and unusual tone woods at a reasonable price.
http://www.rctonewoods.com/RCT_Store
The Zootman
1109 Military Rd.
Kenmore, NY 14217
(716) 874-1498


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