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PostPosted: Sat Jan 24, 2009 5:47 pm 
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Cocobolo
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Joined: Mon Nov 14, 2005 8:30 pm
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I would like to set a dove tail neck but none of my resources cover this action. Currently when the neck is placed in the joint it sits up out of the joint quite a bit. Does anyone know of an online resource or tutorial that might help. Not being familiar with this process I would like to avoid a catastrophy. idunno

Thanks

Philip

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 24, 2009 6:23 pm 
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Koa
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Location: Missouri
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Philip, I am writing to encourage you. I cut and set two dovetail neck joints without formal instruction and I did them by hand. In each case, I had a routed mortise (socket) but I cut the tenons by hand. Experienced builders would have done it in a fraction of the time I spent on each joint, but I eventually got both of them properly set. Others will guide you to some resources, but I just want to give you this encouragement: If I did it, you can, too. I had a lot of problems along the way--I'd get the neck straight, but the joint would be loose. I'd get the joint tight, but the neck would be cranked one way or the other. In both cases, I had to glue on shims cut from veneer, because I had removed too much wood. In spite of all that, I finally succeeded with each joint. You can, too. Now...wait for someone to guide you to a good online resource, and in the meantime, cut a dovetail on scrap that stands out proud of your mortise, and then practice filing, shaving, and sanding it into a perfect fit. Best of luck to you as you move forward!
Patrick


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 24, 2009 6:31 pm 
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Koa
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The don teeter books are required reading, lots of great stuff in there on neck setting although you have to watch out for outdated methods.

For instant internet gratification, FRETS.com also has a bunch of articles on neck sets with lots of pictures.

Both of those focus on resetting existing dovetail joints, but they will give you an idea of where to start and what the process is all about.

Patrick has good advice, just start practicing on something. The nice thing is you can always shim or even rebuild a dovetail, even the best makers do it sometimes.

Be prepared for your first couple to take a LONG time to get right.

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 24, 2009 7:45 pm 
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Cocobolo
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Joined: Sat Oct 27, 2007 1:49 pm
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Location: North Carolina
There is a sequence to getting a dovetail joint correctly fitted. The reason it sits high when you start is to give you room for those adjustment. John Hall showed me how to do it (one of our great sponsers- Blues Creek Guitars.) Start by making sure the there is no twist - that the fretboard surface is level with the guitar top. I use two winding sticks to check this as you would twist on a board. If your headblock and neck are correct you will not need any adjustment. Next relieve the cheeks so that you are only working an small area where the heel contracts the box. Only the outside 1/8" will actually be in contact.
Make sure that that area of the body is absolutely flat or forget getting a good fit. Next you set the angle. You do this with sandpaper strips the same way you do on a mortise and tenon. Stewart McDonald's video on their kit show this very well. Once all the angles are set you remove material to lower the the neck down into the female of the joint. Cut an matching angle on a srap piece of wood and use glue on sandpaper to make a tool for shaping the dovetail. Use chalk or carbon paper to mark the high spots until you get even contact and the neck fits almost flush with the top. Check the joint for slop as you go. When done well it is very tight. You have to tap it out each time you make adjustments.

Good luck - If you live near Pennsylvania - go see John. He is such an unselfish person and a great teacher!

Steve Brown
( Opps - sorry I wanted to reply not start a new topic)


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 24, 2009 8:12 pm 
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Old Growth Brazilian Rosewood
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Steve Brown wrote:
( Opps - sorry I wanted to reply not start a new topic)


Great post Steve - I'll delete the other thread where you made the same reply to help keep things organized.


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 24, 2009 8:21 pm 
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jordan aceto wrote:
The don teeter books are required reading, lots of great stuff in there on neck setting although you have to watch out for outdated methods. <snip>.....


Especially the part about sawing off the fretboard extension!!! :o But that probably wouldn't apply for a new joint.

Pat

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 24, 2009 8:24 pm 
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Koa
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Pat Foster wrote:
jordan aceto wrote:
The don teeter books are required reading, lots of great stuff in there on neck setting although you have to watch out for outdated methods. <snip>.....


Especially the part about sawing off the fretboard extension!!! :o But that probably wouldn't apply for a new joint.

Pat


Thats exactly the part i was thinking about! It's frowned upon in a big way now.

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 25, 2009 1:34 pm 
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Walnut
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Joined: Sun Jan 25, 2009 7:54 am
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I just joined the forum and could really relate to this post. Great question. I had the exact problem and will probably struggle with it with the next guitar. Could someone please post a youtube video on this. Most video examples use bolt on necks. I think I understand the concept but a vid would be nice.
I did like the suggestion about using carbon paper.


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 25, 2009 11:18 pm 
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Mahogany
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Joined: Tue Oct 14, 2008 9:38 pm
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Location: Peters Creek,Alaska
I prefer to use carbon paper and chisel on the heel fit first. I will run a strip of 600 grit a few times through once I am happy with angle and center line. Then shim and chalk for the dovetail fit. I do neck resets, I would have to do it all at once on a new build. ImageImage


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