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PostPosted: Sat Jan 03, 2009 3:11 pm 
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Cocobolo
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In a recent thread about gluing on the FB a tip was given to use regular school glue because it softens easier with heat. Some people just bolt it down. So it doesn't sound like a joint that has to be super strong so I was wondering does any just glue directly on the finish instead of having to bother with taping it off, scraping off finish,etc?



Sorry for overloading the forum with weird questions lately :geek:

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 03, 2009 4:09 pm 
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Last edited by TonyFrancis on Wed Dec 04, 2013 1:58 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 03, 2009 4:27 pm 
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Reputation? I'm a dancin wildcat with red gloves, what reputation? :D

Don't worry, no one advised me to glue the FB on top of the finish. Actually I just got done taping it and the bridge off with Frisket Film and put the first coat of shellac on my top. It was just one of the many questions that pop into my head.

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 03, 2009 4:30 pm 
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Brazilian Rosewood
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not a good idea. If you want to use a bolt on system , that is fine. Don't thing just fastening the neck block is all you need. Be careful of shortcuts, they often are the longest way to go,
john hall

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 03, 2009 4:30 pm 
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Glue wont stick to finish ..... unless you use polyester and CA .. good luck getting that off later on. Youare counting on the bond between the finsih and wood to be pretty strong as well.

There is no issue getting fingerbd ext to release with heat alone if you use titebond or similar. I use a 60s infra red heat lamp to do it .. takes about 15 minutes .. slow as she goes ...

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 03, 2009 4:39 pm 
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TonyKarol wrote:
Glue wont stick to finish .....


That's what I thought

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 03, 2009 4:48 pm 
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TonyKarol wrote:

There is no issue getting fingerbd ext to release with heat alone if you use titebond or similar. I use a 60s infra red heat lamp to do it .. takes about 15 minutes .. slow as she goes ...

I take it you also sheild the body around the fretboard with some cardboard or something from the heat lamp?


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 03, 2009 6:32 pm 
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Elmer's white glue will work for the FB extension (on bare wood…) since there's virtually no creep there and it releases at a slightly lower temp than Titebond. Lately I've stripped the finish only on the edges of the FB extension, leaving about .800" of finish in the middle, like a Brazilian cut so to speak… I think Collings and others do this?

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 03, 2009 6:54 pm 
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"A couple of #10 wood screws. Paint the tips black. No one will notice."

I do hope some of the beginners reading through the posts here don't actually try this.


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 03, 2009 7:11 pm 
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Laurent Brondel wrote:
Elmer's white glue will work for the FB extension (on bare wood…) since there's virtually no creep there and it releases at a slightly lower temp than Titebond. Lately I've stripped the finish only on the edges of the FB extension, leaving about .800" of finish in the middle, like a Brazilian cut so to speak… I think Collings and others do this?


Laurent my friend what is the purpose of leaving the finish in the center area under the fret board extension?

Alan buddy I think that Filippo was kidding but you know Taylor does exactly this, or something like it on the Baby Taylors - ugliest thing I have ever seen in guitar building......


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 03, 2009 7:16 pm 
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Hesh...I wasn't aware that Taylor did that. Everyone knows that you're supposed to use nails....big ones, to make sure that that it holds good.


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 03, 2009 7:59 pm 
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Kalamazoo's had those pretty bolts holding the bridge on. At least they put a little bit of pearl on top of them....You can put perfume on a hog, but it's still a hog.

I strip the finish under my fb too.

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 03, 2009 8:02 pm 
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Hesh wrote:
Laurent my friend what is the purpose of leaving the finish in the center area under the fret board extension?


Hesh, less glue surface, less heat/time required thus much easier to release. Also the oil varnish I use tends to delaminate quite readily with too much heat on the FB bindings there.
Again, since the neck heel butts on the sides/neck block, regardless of the joint type, there's virtually no creep there (at least IME).

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 03, 2009 8:13 pm 
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Got it - that makes sense to me, thanks Laurent. I've already switched to Elmer's and may try the Brazilian cut on the next guitar.


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 04, 2009 6:18 pm 
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I think the baby taylor neck is just like a fender, wood under the fretboard extention as well and the 2 big screws actually holds the neck in...

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 05, 2009 4:50 pm 
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I seem to recall kevin Galleger saying that on cat poly finishes he used CA to glue down the extention. At Least I think It was Kevin idunno


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 05, 2009 5:21 pm 
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In the dim distant past when I still used the old fashioned and thoroughly outdated, even antidiluvian, system of actually gluing the FB to the top on a steel string (can't believe anyone still actually does that ;) ), I only ever glued the centre inch or so to the top leaving the rest unglued to allow for differential expansion. This meant that only the centre inch of the finish needed to be scraped off.

Colin

PS the tone fairy made me write this.

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